10 things about Vietnam 

Sud-Scribe, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , Leave a comment

1. A country shaped by occupation, war, and reinvention

Vietnam’s history is layered and relentless. Centuries of Chinese domination were followed by powerful indigenous dynasties before the country fell under French colonial rule in the 19th century as part of French Indochina. After Japan’s occupation during World War II, revolutionaries led by Ho Chi Minh defeated the French in 1954. Decades of war followed, ending in reunification under communist rule in 1975. Early central planning brought hardship and isolation, but the 1986 Đổi Mới reforms opened the economy to markets and global trade. That long arc of occupation and resistance still feels present. Vietnamese patriotism is not subtle. Red flags with the yellow star hang from homes, storefronts, alleyways, cafés, and government buildings. It does not feel staged. It feels embedded. Whatever the politics, the collective identity is unmistakable. Today, Vietnam is one of Asia’s fastest-growing manufacturing and export economies, absorbing ideology  and conflict while remaining commercially pragmatic.

2. Hanoi’s Old Quarter feels inherited, not designed

Hanoi has a chaotic energy that feels authentic rather than engineered. Nowhere is this more evident than in the Old Quarter, where narrow tube houses lean into tight streets buzzing with scooters, street food, and commerce. It is a mix of old and new. Vendors still wear traditional conical hats and sell food from pushcarts and shoulder poles, weaving through traffic as if choreography were involved. The area dates back to the Lý and Trần dynasties between the 11th and 14th centuries, when artisan guilds formed around specific trades. Many of those guild streets still exist today, though in muted form. Some even maintain small temples dedicated to their craft leaders. It feels like an economy that never fully reset, only adapted.

3. A lake, a sword, and a turtle

Hà Nội literally means “inside the rivers,” referring to its position between the Red River and the Đáy River. The Red River shaped much of the city’s geography, including Hoàn Kiếm Lake at the edge of the Old Quarter. According to legend, Emperor Lê Lợi received a magical sword inscribed with “Thuận Thiên,” meaning The Will of Heaven, to defeat the Ming Dynasty. After victory, a giant turtle emerged from the lake to reclaim it. The emperor returned the sword and renamed the lake Hoàn Kiếm, or Sword Lake. The legend lives on in Hanoi’s water puppet theatre, a performance staged entirely in water that blends agrarian life with folklore. Train Street, once a few local eateries along a railway track, has now become an Instagram spectacle. I am still unsure what the bragging rights are in sitting inches away from a slow-moving train, but it is undeniably unique.

Screenshot

4. Egg coffee was born out of constraint

In 1946, during milk shortages caused by war, a bartender named Nguyen Giang experimented with egg yolk as a substitute while working at what is now the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel. The result was cà phê trứng. Egg yolk whipped with sugar creates a thick, creamy foam that sits over strong coffee. What began as improvisation during scarcity became one of Hanoi’s defining drinks. The legacy lives on at Café Giang, founded by Nguyen Giang himself. We went there, but I found myself preferring Café Đinh, opened by a family member. Tucked away above a small shop with a balcony overlooking Hoàn Kiếm Lake, it felt less commercial and more intimate. The coffee tasted just as indulgent, but the setting made it linger longer.

5. Beauty at scale loses intimacy

From Hanoi, most visitors head to Ha Long Bay. We chose Ninh Binh instead, often referred to as Ha Long on land for its limestone karst formations. Trang An’s scenery was breathtaking, but the conveyor belt style boat tours diluted the experience. Efficiency came at the cost of connection. The same held true at Lying Dragon Mountain in the Mua Cave complex. The views of river and rice fields were rewarding after the steep climb, but jostling through crowds on the way up made it feel more like queue management than discovery. An overnight stay might have restored some of that charm.

6. Religion exists, but differently

Vietnam is officially about 80 percent non-religious, with Buddhism and Christianity making up most of the remainder. Yet spirituality is visible everywhere. Temples are often dedicated not to gods, but to scholars, royals, or masters of craft. The Temple of Literature, founded in 1070 and once Vietnam’s first national university, is dedicated to Confucius and scholars. It feels less like worship and more like reverence for learning and hierarchy.

7. Ho Chi Minh City runs on velocity

Ho Chi Minh City feels more intense than Hanoi, even with wider roads. The traffic is relentless and the air carries a distinct sense of ambition. Unlike Hanoi, there is less visible ancient heritage shaping everyday commerce. The city feels oriented toward modern growth rather than historical preservation. It reminded me of Mumbai in its dynamism, urgency, and willingness to embrace scale.

8. Colonial beauty and communist memory coexist

Ho Chi Minh City’s landmarks reflect both French colonialism and communist history. The Opera House, People’s Committee Building, and Central Post Office are elegant remnants of French rule. In contrast, the War Remnants Museum is heavy and confronting. At times it leans into ideological framing, but the documentation of destruction is detailed and sobering.About 90 minutes outside the city, the Cu Chi Tunnels make for a worthwhile day trip. This 250 kilometer network, built and used by the Viet Cong during guerrilla warfare, is both claustrophobic and impressive in its engineering. Crawling through sections of the tunnels gives a visceral sense of the conditions fighters endured. The adjacent shooting range allows tourists to fire high-caliber weapons. Shooting an AK-47 in that context feels surreal.

9. Coffee is infrastructure

Vietnam is the world’s second-largest coffee producer, primarily robusta beans. Robusta carries a harsher reputation compared to arabica, but it underpins the country’s distinct brewing styles and fuels a massive domestic café culture. The coffee scene is expansive. Chains like Highlands and Katinat are everywhere, while boutique roasters such as Lacaph and The Runner Bean add craft depth. Ho Chi Minh City even has an entire “coffee building,” stacked floor by floor with independent cafés. Egg coffee may have started as improvisation, but today coffee in Vietnam operates at industrial scale.

10. The best food sits low to the ground

Bánh mì, bánh cuốn, chè, and chả cá were highlights. The best turmeric fish we had came from a tiny place overlooking Train Street. The best chè was from a street corner in the Old Quarter. The Instagram-famous spots and polished chains were good, but they did not stand out. In Vietnam, the best meals often require a low plastic stool, a wobbly metal table, and a willingness to trust the place that looks the least curated.

10 things about Vietnam 

10 things about Taipei, Taiwan 

Sud-Scribe, , , , , , , , , , , , Leave a comment

1. History that still shapes the present

Taiwan entered Western awareness in the 16th century when Portuguese sailors named it Formosa, meaning “beautiful.” After brief European involvement, the island came under Chinese rule, first by Ming loyalists and later the Qing dynasty. In 1895, Taiwan was ceded to Japan after the First Sino-Japanese War and remained a Japanese colony for fifty years, a period that strongly shaped its modernization. After World War II, Taiwan was placed under the Republic of China, and in 1949 the losing side of the Chinese Civil War retreated there and rebuilt the state. Decades of martial law eventually gave way to a vibrant democracy. Today, there is a quiet tension tied to the relationship with China. Patriotic sentiment runs high, but politics often split by generation, with the older generation leaning toward the KMT and younger Taiwanese strongly preferring the Democratic Progressive Party and its more skeptical view of reconciliation.

2. A dense city with real neighborhood texture

Taipei is a city of about 2.5 million people, with 7.5 million in the larger metro area. It is not a global megacity, but it is very dense, which gives rise to neighborhoods with distinct identities. Xinyi is the modern business district, while adjacent Songshan has luxury hotels, shopping, and one of the largest night markets. Wanhua is one of the oldest parts of the city, named after an indigenous word meaning canoe or raft, reflecting its early role as a trading hub. Ximending, or Ximen, is foodie central, with walkable streets and a nonstop stream of local eateries. Zhongshan feels like a more polished, upscale version of Ximen, with better international food and a quieter confidence.

3. Taipei 101 is more interesting up close

Taipei 101 is Taiwan’s most recognizable landmark and was once the tallest building in the world when it opened in 2004. What makes it interesting is not the height but the engineering. Taiwan deals with frequent earthquakes and typhoons, and the building sits close to a fault line. To handle this, a 660-ton tuned mass dampener was installed near the top to absorb movement, and it is visible to visitors. The foundation is reinforced with hundreds of piles drilled deep into bedrock. Videos from past earthquakes show just how effective this system is.

4. Monumental spaces and serious culture

The Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall is a sprawling complex of traditional architecture centered on a memorial to the state’s founder. It reminded me of the Lincoln Memorial in Washington DC, which turns out to be intentional. The National Theater and National Concert Hall nearby are also striking examples of classical design. The National Palace Museum, about 30 minutes from the city center, is the crown jewel of Taiwan’s cultural heritage and holds some of the most important Chinese art in the world, spanning thousands of years of shared history. Visit on a non-holiday if possible, as it was packed on a long weekend.

5. Hot springs on the metro line

Beitou Hot Springs is a genuine gem. It is rare to find a major city with large hot springs within city limits, and even rarer to have them accessible by metro. The Thermal Valley with its boiling sulfuric water was larger and cleaner than I expected. There are many spa hotels nearby offering hot spring pools. It is hard to go wrong, though the experience itself felt closer to a well-executed hot tub than something dramatically different.

6. Religion without rigid boundaries

Longshan Temple in Wanhua is one of Taiwan’s oldest and most important temples, founded in 1738 and primarily dedicated to Guanyin. It also houses dozens of Buddhist, Taoist, and folk deities, reflecting how religion in Taiwan is rarely confined to a single tradition. People blend beliefs depending on the moment and the need. One practice I had not seen elsewhere involved moon blocks, which are used to ask yes or no questions by tossing them and interpreting how they land. It felt practical, conversational, and very Taiwanese.

7. Din Tai Fung still earns the hype

Din Tai Fung is one of Taiwan’s most successful culinary exports, but in Taipei it feels like a world-class institution rather than a chain. Everything from reservations to ordering runs like a well-oiled machine. The food was excellent, especially the xiao long bao, with delicate skins that held hot soup perfectly. I was surprised to find a vegetarian xiao long bao, which I have not seen elsewhere. Even the sides like greens and shrimp fried rice were executed at a high level. I went back multiple times, helped by the fact that it was far more affordable than in the US.

8. Boba as a daily staple

Taiwan is the home of world-class boba tea, and it shows. It is high quality, cheap, and everywhere. My favorite classic milk tea was from Oolong Tea Project, where the tea flavor was prominent and the sweetness restrained. Chun Shui Tang was a close second but felt slightly heavier. Traditional milk teas often use non-dairy creamers, which have great mouthfeel but can feel heavy on the stomach. Fresh milk options are common in Taipei and a better alternative. Mazu Factory’s brown sugar milk was excellent but almost felt like a meal due to their use of very thick milk.

9. Breakfast done simply

Taiwan does breakfast well, mostly through small mom and pop shops serving traditional fare. The standout for me was shaobing, a sesame flatbread stuffed with an omelet loaded with scallions. Soy milk was more inconsistent than expected and often sweeter, though still worth trying. Fuhang Soy Milk was extremely crowded and touristy. The sesame buns were very good, but adding youtiao made the sandwich greasy and too heavy.

Fu Hang Soy Milk, a Michelin-rated eatery in Taipei, specializes in traditional Taiwanese breakfast dishes.

10. Night markets did not work for me

Taiwanese night markets are supposed to be legendary, but they were a miss for me. Raohe Night Market was large, but many vendors sold similar items that were mostly deep fried and average. It reminded me of American state fairs, except those benefit from being seasonal. Night markets here operate daily, and some vendors seemed genuinely bored. One was playing a mobile game while making my oyster omelet. Stinky tofu was unique, but the smell was off-putting enough that I did not want to try it again. In contrast, the noodles at Chun Shui Tang, the dumplings at Silks Palace in the National Palace Museums, scallion pancakes from a street vendor off Shilin metro station and the tofu pudding at National Concert Hall were spectacular. The pineapple cakes, however, were excellent. SunnyHills stood out as the gold standard. They are pricier, but the quality shows.

10 things about Taipei, Taiwan 

5 things about Sofia, Bulgaria 

Sud-Scribe, , , , , , , , , , , , , , Leave a comment

1. A city built in layers, not chapters

Sofia’s history does not move neatly forward. It stacks. As Serdica, it flourished under Roman rule and became an early Christian center where basilicas were woven directly into everyday urban life. In the medieval period, under Byzantine and Bulgarian rule, the city evolved into a fortified religious and commercial hub and eventually took the name Sofia, after the Church of Saint Sofia. Nearly five centuries under Ottoman rule then turned it into a multi-faith administrative capital, layering mosques, markets, and Orthodox churches onto ancient foundations. What you see today is not a single era. It is all of them at once.

    2. Why there is a church on every corner

    Sofia’s dense church landscape exists because nothing was ever fully erased. Christianity took root early in Roman Serdica. Bulgaria later aligned with Byzantium, not Rome, in 864 CE, firmly placing the city in the Eastern Orthodox world. During almost 500 years of Ottoman rule, the religion survived quietly through small, low-profile churches that were tolerated but never celebrated. After independence in 1878, churches became symbols of national revival, adding monumental landmarks alongside much older sacred sites. It does not feel redundant. It feels layered. Ancient foundations, underground survival, and modern nationhood all share the same streets.

    3. An Orthodox skyline that feels both ancient and Russian

    From the austere Saint Sofia Church, the city’s 6th-century spiritual core built over Roman ruins, to the breathtaking scale and gilded domes of Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, and the compact, onion-domed Russian Church of St. Nicholas, Sofia’s churches tell a story of liberation-era ties to Russia layered onto much older Byzantine and Bulgarian roots. This is why the skyline feels unmistakably Orthodox and, at times, distinctly Russian without ever losing its age or gravity

    4. European charm, with Soviet scars still visible

    Downtown Sofia feels classically European, anchored by landmarks like the Ivan Vazov National Theatre, a symbol of early-20th-century cultural confidence. A short walk away, the Sofia History Museum, housed in a former Ottoman bath later reused during the socialist era, traces the city’s journey from Roman Serdica to communism. Yet Sofia’s time in the Soviet sphere is impossible to miss. Monumental blocks, wide boulevards, and buildings where communist insignia have been deliberately scraped away still carry the outlines of a very recent past.

    5. A cuisine rooted in fields, not finesse

    Bulgarian food reflects its agrarian roots. Simple, seasonal, and Balkan at heart, with clear Greek influence. Shopska salad, often called the national dish, combines tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, and sirene cheese. Though found across the Balkans, it was formalized in the 1950s by the state tourism agency Balkantourist. Banitsa, a filo pie cousin of burek, stood out for its exceptionally delicate, flaky layers and warm, fresh cheese, noticeably better executed than versions further north. It is often paired with boza, a thick, mildly fermented grain drink. Mekitsa, casually referred to as a donut, is closer to fried bread, somewhere between a poori and a beignet, served with jam or sugar and cinnamon and eaten exactly when it is still hot. 

    5 things about Sofia, Bulgaria 

    5 things about Belgrade, Serbia

    Sud-Scribe, , , , , , , , , , , Leave a comment

    1. A city shaped by empires, not erased by them

    Serbia traces its roots to early Slavic settlements, rising under the medieval Nemanjić dynasty and briefly becoming a Balkan power in the 14th century before centuries of Ottoman rule. Belgrade sits at the center of this story. One of Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited cities, it has passed between Byzantine, Hungarian, and Ottoman hands, and today feels less curated than accumulated. Its layers are visible, sometimes messy, and very much alive.

    2. Kalemegdan is where Belgrade makes sense

    Belgrade Fortress, or Kalemegdan, crowns the confluence of the Danube and Sava and forms the historic core of the city. Built, destroyed, and rebuilt by successive empires, it reflects Belgrade’s role as a strategic crossroads rather than a ceremonial capital. While the fortress includes landmarks like the Victor Monument, Ružica Church, St. Petka’s Chapel, and the Military Museum, the real payoff is quieter. Standing by the gates, watching the rivers merge below, you feel why this spot has mattered for centuries.

    3. The city’s pulse lives in its streets

    Belgrade’s energy reveals itself on foot. Knez Mihailova is the main artery, lined with cafés, galleries, and shops, linking Republic Square to Kalemegdan. A few minutes away, Skadarlija shifts the tone entirely. Short, winding, and preserved as a cultural-historical area, it comes alive after dusk with musicians and packed restaurants. It feels less staged than remembered, which is part of its charm.

    4. Belgrade’s Icons: Mind and Spirit

    The Nikola Tesla Museum is a compact but meaningful tribute to one of Serbia’s most celebrated figures. The staff are warm and enthusiastic, and the Tesla coil demonstration, with visible electrical charges cracking through the air, is a genuine crowd-pleaser. Nearby, the lesser-visited National Museum of Serbia offers an under-the-radar but solid introduction to the country’s history and cultural arc. If Tesla speaks to Serbia’s scientific legacy, the Church of Saint Sava is about scale and symbolism. Dominating the skyline with white marble, granite, and one of the largest Orthodox domes in the world, it feels ancient in form despite being modern in construction. Inside, vast golden mosaics shimmer across the interior, creating a space that is monumental rather than ornate. Built on the site where Saint Sava’s relics were burned, the church reads as a quiet but unmistakable assertion of identity.

    5. Food here is direct, comforting, and unapologetic

    Serbian cuisine leans heavily on grilled meats and pies. Ćevapi are the flag bearer, even if Bosnia claims them too, and they rarely disappoint. Ajvar, made from red peppers, eggplant, and garlic, was the standout for me. Sweet, smoky, and just spicy enough, it works with almost everything. Serbian salad, a simple mix of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, and salty white cheese, shows up everywhere and does exactly what it needs to do. Burek is a staple and Trpković Bakery lives up to its reputation with crisp, generously filled pastries, though slightly greasier than ideal. Meals are often paired with rakija, the local fruit brandy that is deceptively strong, sometimes spicy, occasionally anise-forward, and very much not meant to be rushed. Desserts are less emphasized, but the famous Moscow Cake at Hotel Moskva is spoken of with reverence. Visually stunning, though for me, overly sweet and flatter in flavor than expected.

    5 things about Belgrade, Serbia

    7 things about Bucharest, Romania

    Sud-Scribe, , , , , , , , Leave a comment

    1. History and identity

    Romania’s history is one of repeated absorption and re-formation. The land that is now Romania was first inhabited by the Dacians and later folded into the Roman Empire. Over the centuries, the region saw successive waves of control by the Cumans, the Ottomans, and later the Habsburgs, even as a Romanian identity began to take shape under figures like Michael the Brave. Medieval principalities such as Wallachia and Moldavia eventually consolidated into a modern Romanian state in the late nineteenth century. After World War II, Romania became a socialist republic under Soviet influence. When that system collapsed, it re-emerged once again as a modern republic. That sense of continuity under repeated disruption is central to understanding the country.

    2. The city itself

    Bucharest was better than I expected. It feels dense and sprawling at the same time. Parts of the city reminded me of Mexico City, perhaps because of Herăstrău Park, a vast green space in the center that plays a role similar to Chapultepec. The wide boulevards reflect Soviet-era urban planning, and the brutalist buildings reinforce that impression. Bucharest has been the capital since the formation of the Romanian state, and its coat of arms is derived from that of Wallachia, another reminder of how deeply history is embedded in the city.

    3. The Palace of Parliament

    Also known as the People’s House, the Palace of Parliament is excess made physical. What it lacks in taste, it attempts to compensate for with scale. It is the largest civil administrative building in the world and also the heaviest. Built between 1984 and 1997 during the communist era, it houses the Parliament, the Constitutional Court, and several museums. Despite this, it is estimated that nearly seventy percent of the building remains unused. Tours are offered daily and tend to sell out during the summer, which says something about our fascination with monuments to ambition.

    4. Music and architecture

    The Romanian Athenaeum, or Ateneul Român, was built in 1888 by the Romanian Athenaeum Cultural Society and remains one of the city’s architectural highlights. The neoclassical exterior is regal without feeling overwhelming, and the ornate domed roof stands out immediately. Inside, the entry halls and staircases create a sense of ceremony before opening into the main concert hall. It feels like a building designed not only for music, but for occasion.

    5. Old Town and living history

    Bucharest’s Old Town is relatively compact and dominated by heritage buildings owned by government bodies and local institutions. The Stavropoleos Monastery feels like an anachronism. Built in 1724 by the Greek monk Ioannikios Stratonikeas, it began as a monastery supported by an inn, which was common at the time. Earthquakes and nineteenth-century demolitions destroyed most of the complex, but the church endured. Today it is complemented by a twentieth-century building housing rare icons, fresco fragments, and a small library. Nearby, Cărturești’s Old Town location stands out for its bright, open interiors and layered floors. It is an easy place to linger and a good stop for thoughtful local souvenirs.

    6. A day in Transylvania

    Exploring Transylvania was one of the things I was most looking forward to, but travel delays forced me to cut Brașov from my itinerary. I still managed a day trip. Romania’s train system feels like a holdover from the Soviet era. It is not glamorous, but it is functional and reliable. Sinaia, the gateway town, has the feel of a hill station, with cooler weather and greenery that offered relief when Bucharest was reaching forty-four degrees Celsius. I skipped Bran Castle, often marketed as Dracula’s Castle, because of its Disney-like reputation and the weak historical link to the legend. Peleș Castle, on the other hand, was worth the effort. Once the summer retreat of King Carol I, it is opulent without feeling kitsch. Technically a palace, it blends Neo-Renaissance and Gothic Revival styles reminiscent of Neuschwanstein, with Saxon and Baroque influences throughout. Its one hundred and seventy richly decorated rooms showcase themed interiors and an extraordinary collection of art, arms, and decorative treasures.

    7. Food and small surprises

    Romanian cuisine is unapologetically meat-forward, shaped by agrarian roots and cross-cultural influences, particularly from Greece. Many classic dishes are rich and filling, often paired with polenta. Caru’ cu Bere, a historic beer hall in Bucharest’s Old Town, is more about atmosphere and beer than exceptional food, but the setting alone makes it worth a visit. In Transylvania, the cuisine shifts closer to Hungarian flavors, with dishes such as langoși and colaci. A completely non-traditional highlight was French Revolution, a patisserie in Bucharest. The éclairs, especially the pistachio, were exceptional and could easily hold their own against the best in Paris.

    7 things about Bucharest, Romania

    5 things about Luxembourg City, Luxembourg 

    Sud-Scribe, , , , , , , , , , , , , Leave a comment

    1. Luxembourg is a tiny landlocked country tucked between Belgium, France, and Germany, and it’s still officially the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. Its history reads like a revolving door of European powers: once part of the Holy Roman Empire, then under the Habsburgs, then France, then partitioned multiple times, losing territory bit by bit until regaining independence in 1867. Today it’s small but globally relevant: a financial hub, a founding member of the EU, and home to the Court of Justice of the European Union.

    2. I didn’t expect Luxembourg to feel this French. The feeling began on LuxAir with a croissant so buttery and warm that it rivaled the best from Parisian patisseries. In the city, parts of Luxembourg look like an upscale, immaculately restored French town—elegant façades, quiet streets, and pastry shops with polished marble counters. At one patisserie, I got politely but firmly corrected for how I was taking a photo—an unexpectedly charming “you must do it properly” moment that felt very French in spirit. 

    3. The views in Luxembourg City are phenomenal and genuinely feel like stepping back in time. Chemin de la Corniche offers the best panorama in the city. The walk down into the Grund, a historic district in the valley below, was serene and full of postcard-perfect houses tucked into greenery and stone terraces. From there I continued toward Vallée de la Pétrusse, crossed Pont Adolphe, looped back to Place de la Constitution and passed by the Grand Ducal Palace. I eventually ended in Pfaffenthal looking back across the Grund valley, which is one of those scenes you hold onto long after.

    4. Casemates du Bock is the main tourist attraction, consisting of underground tunnels carved into the rock in the 17th century to defend the city. I found the idea more compelling than the experience itself and came away slightly underwhelmed. However, the elevated river views from the upper fortifications afterward were absolutely worth the stop and offered a clearer sense of how dramatic the city’s cliffs and valley structure really are.

    5. Luxembourg’s food scene isn’t globally famous, but the French culinary influence is unmistakable. There are excellent patisseries and chocolate shops, including Ladurée and Pierre Marcolini, but Oberweis is the local institution that stands out. Its viennoiseries genuinely match quality you would find in Paris. The highlight was their dacquoise, with layers of almond meringue, crème pâtissière, and ganache. The textural contrast, especially from the nuts, made it one of the most distinct pastries I tried on the trip.

    5 things about Luxembourg City, Luxembourg 

    5 things about Vilnius, Lithuania  

    Sud-Scribe, , , , , , , Leave a comment

    1. Vilnius is the largest city in the Baltics, home to over 600,000 people and a magnet for students from across Lithuania and neighboring countries thanks to affordable housing and generous student subsidies. According to the 2024 World Happiness Report, Lithuanians under 30 are the happiest people on Earth, and it shows in the city’s easy, upbeat vibe. Vilnius traces its origins to Grand Duke Gediminas, who founded it with a modest wooden castle and invited merchants to settle in the area. Granted city rights in 1387, it became the heart of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania before centuries of Russian and Soviet influence shaped its history.

    2. Vilnius’s Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1994, has seen a remarkable transformation in recent years. Many heritage buildings have been restored and repurposed into lively mixed-use spaces, driven by a tourism boom and government support. The Gediminas Tower, part of the Vilnius Castle Complex, is worth visiting; the original 15th-century brick fort was expanded in 1933, and the top offers sweeping views of the Old Town and the Neris River. I also enjoyed wandering through Vilnius University’s historic campus, where Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque buildings coexist beautifully.

    3. After Lithuania converted to Christianity in 1387, church building flourished, leaving Vilnius with a skyline rich in spires. St. Anne’s Church, with its red-brick Gothic façade, was my favorite. The nearby Vilnius Cathedral stands out for its simplicity, while the bell tower next door offers lovely views of the city. Saint Casimir’s Church in Rotušės Square, painted in pink-orange tones, adds yet another burst of charm to the Old Town.

    4. Across the river from Old Town lies Užupis, a bohemian enclave that reminded me of Copenhagen’s Freetown Christiania, though with a lighter and more whimsical character. Founded by artists, Užupis declared itself an independent republic in 1997, complete with its own constitution, currency, and president, though all in playful spirit. Its national day is celebrated on April 1st, a nod to its sense of humor. Once a neglected area, Užupis was revived by artists and is now filled with galleries, cafés, and quirky public art. It even has honorary ambassadors, including the 14th Dalai Lama, and a small Tibet Square named in his honor.

    5. Lithuanian food is rich and comforting, full of fried doughs, potatoes, and meats, but the pink soup (Šaltibarščiai) is a standout both in flavor and appearance. Made from kefir and beets, and topped with cucumbers, dill, and hard-boiled eggs, it’s refreshing and visually striking. Another local staple is kvass, a fermented rye-bread drink that is sweet, malty, and surprisingly addictive. Both are great introductions to Lithuania’s hearty yet soulful food culture.

    5 things about Vilnius, Lithuania  

    7 things about Riga, Latvia 

    Sud-Scribe, , , , , , , , , Leave a comment

    1. Riga is the largest city in Latvia and the second largest in the Baltics, just behind Vilnius. The region was first settled by the Livs, a Finnic tribe of fishermen and traders. But it was in the 12th century that trade truly began to flourish, drawing attention from the north. As Christianity spread, traders were followed by crusaders eager to convert the Livonians from paganism. After several failed attempts, the Church finally found success under Bishop Albert, who established Riga as a trading post in 1201 and secured its recognition as a city in 1225.

    2. Riga’s strategic location made it a key part of the Hanseatic League, a powerful network of merchant cities. The alliance brought stability, prosperity, and architectural ambition. The iconic House of the Black Heads was originally built for a merchant guild during this era. The version standing today is a reconstruction from the late 1990s, as the original was destroyed during World War II but it still captures the grandeur and spirit of the city’s mercantile past.

    3. The Old Town offers a glimpse of how a thriving medieval city once looked. St. Peter’s Church, with its striking red-brick façade, stands out as one of its most recognizable landmarks. The viewing platform atop its tower provides a sweeping 360-degree view of the city. Nearby, the Riga Cathedral dates back to the same era and was considered one of the largest churches in the Baltics at the time. The Three Brothers, a row of adjoining houses, might look like just another photo stop, but they hold the distinction of being among the oldest surviving residential buildings in Riga. 

    4. Riga was part of the Russian Empire from the early 1700s to the early 1900s. During this time, it grew into one of the empire’s most important economic centers and busiest ports. Towards the end of this period, the city experienced an extraordinary architectural boom. It became home to one of the largest collections of Art Nouveau buildings in the world, most of which were constructed between 1904 and 1914.

    5. Art Nouveau was inspired by natural forms such as plants and flowers, characterized by flowing lines, asymmetrical curves, and stylized figures. About a third of the buildings in Riga’s city center are built in this style, making it impossible to miss. Walking down Alberta iela, an open-air gallery of Art Nouveau architecture, I couldn’t help thinking about how modern design has become so focused on function and minimalism that we’ve lost some of that artistic soul. Interestingly, even artists from that era like Eugène Viollet-le-Duc felt the same about the architectural trends of their time, which helped spark the movement in the first place. The facades on these buildings are genuinely breathtaking, and every detail, from sculpted faces to swirling vines, feels alive.

    6. The KGB building, locally known as the Corner House, is a haunting reminder of Latvia’s communist past. It was once occupied by the Soviet secret police during the height of Soviet rule. Touring it was deeply moving; the narrow, dimly lit corridors and cramped cells evoke an almost physical sense of the fear and repression people endured. 

    7. LIDO, practically an institution in Riga’s food scene. At first glance, it looks like an upscale buffet, perhaps a Baltic cousin of Sweet Tomatoes, but it’s much more than that. The menu is full of simple, hearty dishes made in a home-style way, nourishing, unpretentious, and comforting. The atmosphere feels just right: cozy and inviting without crossing into kitsch. A meal there pairs perfectly with a taste of Latvia’s national drink, Black Balsam, a liqueur made from 24 botanicals including ginger root and peppermint, blended with high-proof alcohol, honey, caramel, and fruit juices. I expected a sharp, licorice-like flavor, but it turned out surprisingly smooth, rich, and complex, with a warmth that lingers long after.

    7 things about Riga, Latvia 

    10 things about Berlin, Germany 

    Sud-Scribe, , , , , , , , , , , Leave a comment

    1. Berlin began along the River Spree in the 12th century when German settlers under Albert the Bear turned a stretch of marshland into a small trading center. Two towns grew side by side: Berlin on the north bank and Cölln on an island that is now Museum Island. They shared bridges, markets, and families, slowly becoming one community. By 1432, the two officially joined as Berlin-Cölln, setting the stage for a city that would keep reinventing itself for centuries to come.

    2. By the early 1700s, Berlin was no longer a cluster of river towns. In 1709, nearby settlements like Friedrichswerder and Friedrichstadt were brought together under one administration, creating Greater Berlin. Under Frederick the Great, the city filled with palaces, wide avenues, and cultural life. The Industrial Revolution gave it new momentum, and when Bismarck united Germany in 1871, Berlin became the capital of a growing empire. Its population exploded from under a million to four million by the 1920s. Even today, Berlin feels different from cities like Munich. It is gritty, diverse, and full of contradictions. I know it is an unfair comparison but its soul feel so different from that of a typical German city. 

    3. Berlin was once the epicenter of so many historic events leading up to World War II. It has tried to move on from many painful memories but preserved just enough as a reminder not to repeat those mistakes. The stretch of the Berlin Wall along Bernauerstrasse, culminating in the Berlin Wall Memorial, documents the lives of ordinary Germans who were affected by the wall. The stories were so well presented that they put me in the shoes of those who lost agency, faced harsh realities, and even perished during that time. Another section of the wall, now called the East Side Gallery, has been turned into an open-air art installation, almost as if the wall’s weight has been transformed into creative expression. The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is another moving monument dedicated to the Jewish lives lost to the Nazi regime. 

    4. The Reichstag is the German parliament building. It was constructed between 1884 and 1894 and served as the legislature of the German Empire, the Weimar Republic, and later Nazi Germany. A fire in 1933 forced the legislature to move out, and although it was restored after World War II, its location in West Berlin prevented its use as a parliamentary building for decades. After reunification, the building was redesigned by Norman Foster and re-commissioned in 1999. Its most striking feature is the glass dome, symbolizing transparency between lawmakers and the public. The dome is a beautiful piece of architecture, and visitors including foreigners  can visit it for free.

    5. Berlin is a city of museums, in fact it has 170 of them. It even has an entire island block, Museum Island, home to some of the best ones like the Pergamon and Neues Museum. Tränenpalast is a small museum at Friedrichstrasse that punches above its weight. Originally a border checkpoint connecting East and West Germany, it has been mostly left as it was. The stories of people who passed through are deeply emotional, and its name fittingly translates to “Palace of Tears.” 

    6. The Topography of Terror museum is a powerful and detailed documentation of the systemic violence inflicted by the Nazi regime through the Schutzstaffel (SS) under Himmler. It’s revealing to see how a seemingly ordinary protection squad evolved into the primary enforcer of the regime’s discrimination and extermination policies. The museum is text-heavy, but the free guided tour helps make sense of the narrative.

    7. The city truly comes alive at night, especially along the Spree near the Berlin Cathedral. People picnic, dance, or simply relax by the water. Berlin has a unique energy after dark that feels spontaneous and free, and I’m not even talking about its spectacular club scene. Urban decay isn’t really a European phenomenon, and certainly not in Berlin.

    8. The food scene is wonderfully diverse, covering everything from regional Chinese cuisines to Lebanese, Indian, Vietnamese, Somali, and Ethiopian. Kreuzberg is the best neighborhood for food lovers, closely followed by Prenzlauer Berg, Friedrichshain, and Charlottenburg. We missed the Sudanese falafel place (Sahara Imbiss), but the Levantine food at The Hummussapiens was as authentic as it gets. The aubergine at Sababa in Prenzlauer Berg could easily have come from a café in Tel Aviv.

    9. Berlin’s native culinary invention is the currywurst — a sliced sausage covered in curry sauce and dusted with curry powder. It perfectly captures the city’s melting-pot spirit. I tried the vegan version at Curry61, and it was better than any I’ve had before. Another Berlin staple is the döner kebab, a Turkish import turned local classic. It’s believed to have originated in the Ottoman Empire, where vertical meat roasting began, but became popular in Germany during the wave of Turkish immigration in the 1960s and 70s. Made with roasted meat (or falafel as a substitute), salad, and garlic or spicy sauce in a cut-open flatbread called pide. It is the perfect street food – affordable, filling, and full of flavor.

    10. German bread is great, but Berlin has its own baking culture. Zeit für Brot is a local favorite known for its Schnecken – spiral-shaped sticky buns layered with cinnamon and raisins, or modern flavors like white chocolate and raspberry. Baumkuchen is another local specialty, a “tree cake” baked on a rotating spit that gives it its signature rings. It’s a simple butter cake layered with patience, and Konditorei Buchwald makes the best version in the city. 

    10 things about Berlin, Germany 

    5 things about Andorra

    Sud-Scribe, , , , , , , , , Leave a comment

    1. Andorra, officially the Principality of Andorra, is a tiny country wedged between France and Spain. Legend has it that Charlemagne granted independence to its people in gratitude for their support against the Moors. That gift later sparked a dispute between his successors, the Bishop of Urgell and the Count of Foix, who eventually agreed to share power as co-princes. The arrangement still exists today. Since the Count’s title eventually passed to the French head of state, the President of France is technically a co-ruler of another country. The role is mostly ceremonial now, as Andorra became a parliamentary democracy in 1993. 

    2. Andorra is reachable only by road. The drive itself is scenic, winding through mountain passes with glimpses of the Pyrenees’ peaks. Buses connect it efficiently to France and Spain, and the country is divided into six parishes. Canillo is the largest and home to Grandvalira, the main ski resort. Tourism drives the economy, shifting between ski season and shopping season throughout the year.

    3. Andorra la Vella, the capital and most populous city, feels more like an overbuilt ski town. Shiny new apartments fill the narrow valley, and much of the city resembles a sprawling open-air shopping mall. Still, there’s an undeniable buzz on Friday and Saturday evenings when people pour in from nearby border towns to take advantage of Andorra’s duty-free status. Most shops focus on luxury apparel, cosmetics, alcohol, or tobacco.

    4. The old town of Andorra la Vella is small but worth a short wander. The stone Sant Esteve church and Casa de la Vall hint at an older Andorra beneath the modern facades. For a quick escape into nature, Roca de Solà offers a pleasant 4 km round trip with lovely valley views, while Mirador Roc del Quer near Ordino, about 30 minutes away, offers an even better panorama.

    5. The official language of Andorra is Catalan, making it the only country in the world where that’s the case.I noticed it at a local bakery where the entire menu was in Catalan. It’s a small detail but one that stands out, showing how this tiny nation manages to keep its distinct cultural identity between two much larger neighbors.

    5 things about Andorra