7 things about Amsterdam, Netherlands

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1. The city of Amsterdam was founded around 1250 with the building of the Dam that gave it its name. it was built to safeguard the city from flooding caused by the Amstel river. The word Amsterdam is derived from “Aeme Stelle Redamme” which in medieval Dutch meant a dam in a watery area. The Dam Square eventually became the as the centre of the city. It houses the Koninklijk Palace which was once the home of the royal Dutch family. The central train station is also a stone’s throw from Dam Square.

2. Canals are an integral part of the Amsterdam’s identity. But it was built in the 17th century for an important reason – to accommodate growth. In the 16th century, Amsterdam was a fast growing port, it was bursting at it seams with new immigrants. So, the city decided to drain the swamps using canals to create more livable space.The three main canals – Herengracht, Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht were built in concentric circles paving the way for more land and a nicer way of transportation around the city.

3. The cute buildings along the canals are very characteristic of the architecture of the Dutch Golden age. The gabled facades are eye catching but they also distract visitors from other details like large windows, hooks hanging out of the rooftops as well as the narrowness of the building itself. Since housing was hard to come by in Amsterdam, the state handed some of its  worthy citizens precious plots of land along the canal that were long but relatively narrow Those citizens promptly utilized it also as a business front or a warehouse due to its proximity to the canals. The roof mounted hooks were an easy way to haul good from the boats. The larger windows not only helped bring in more natural light but also structurally necessary to reduce the load on the wooden foundations as the soil beneath is very soft. 

4. Given its relatively compact size and beautiful canals, cycling is one of the preferred modes of transport in the city. About 30% of city travel happens on cycles. Perhaps, a close second behind Copenhagen. There are ~ 2 bicycles per household in Amsterdam. So, it is not surprising that some of them end up in the canals often. About 12,000 bicycles are pulled out from the canals every year. The Dutch even have a name for it – fietsen vissen (bike fishing). 

5. It is shame that Amsterdam came to be known for its vice. The coffee shops in Amsterdam are essentially places that allow usage of pot. They very much operate in this gray zone as use, possession and distribution of non-medicinal drugs is still illegal under Dutch law. However, usage of some “soft drugs” is tolerated which led to the cottage industry of coffee shops. The red light district in De Wallen is an area where registered sex work is legal. Due to its proximity to the harbor, De Wallen had a long history of small scale and/or underground prostitution. It was not until the 18th century, when the demand from wealthier men grew, gambling houses started providing posher room/board for the women. Prostitution was legalized and regulated starting 1811 with workers being subject to health checks. Today, the legacy continues with rows of women advertising their wares standing behind glass windows in dimly lit rooms with red or blue lights.  

6. Amsterdam’s museum quarter is world class. The national art collections are housed at the Rijksmuseum. The collections of Rembrandt, Frans Hals, and Johannes Vermeer were my favorite sections. The Van Gogh museum next door is dedicated to the art and personal history of the influential Dutch painter.  The museum houses his unsold works that were inherited by his extended family and eventually donated to the state. The uniqueness of his brush strokes is well known but they look more expressive in real life. The self portraits are equally noteworthy. The Anne Frank House is a biographical museum dedicated to Anne Frank, a young girl who chronicle her family’s experience in hiding from Nazi persecution. Anne and her family hid in the secret annex of the same building for 2 years before being arrested and sentenced to concentration camps. Some of the writings that were salvaged after their arrest were compiled into The Diary of Anne Frank. 

7. Dutch food isn’t particularly popular and even the Dutch would readily admit. However, there are solid snack options that make it hard to complain. Stroopwafel is ubiquitous, it consists of two waffle cookies joined by a caramel filling. It is usually eaten with coffee or tea but you don’t need an excuse them. The thick cut fries with mayo are sinful and addictive. Apparently, apple pie is a cafe standby. The version at Winkel 43 is popular with visitors but I thought it was strictly ok. The cheese selection is one of the best in Europe – Gouda, Edam and Leyden are highly rated but more eccentric varieties are available at the Albert Cuyp market. I also heard about the availability of quality Indonesian food thanks to their colonial influence. 

7 things about Amsterdam, Netherlands

10 things about Peru

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1. Lima is a cosmopolitan city and the second largest one in South America. Like any large city, there are pockets of rough neighborhoods but the upscale ones like San Isidro and Miraflores are just as good as anywhere else in the world. The marine climate makes Lima an all year destination, there are no extremes in weather. 

2. Miraflores is tourist and entertainment central. It is home to all the luxury hotels in Lima along with plenty of restaurants, bars and shopping.The Larcomar outdoor mall is a neighborhood highlight because of its unique geography, it is built into a sea cliff facing the Pacific Ocean.  

3. Located right in the center of the Miraflores neighborhood, the clay brick pyramid  structures called Huaca Pucallana look out of place. But it is one of the most ancient monuments in Peru. The structures dates back to the pre-Incan days between 100 AD – 650 AD and were erected by the indigenous civilization called the Lima culture. 

4. Plaza Mayor or Plaza de Armas is the historic center of the city. Like other city plazas built by the Spanish conquistadores, Lima’s plaza is home to the presidential palace, the Cathedral, the Archbishop’s palace and the municipal palace. The change of guard ceremony at the presidential palace is a grand affair with a marching band and a musical performance. It is even more special on Sundays when the royal performance horses are added to the mix. 

5. Lima punches about its way about its weight in the culinary department with restaurants like Astrid y Gaston, El Mercado, La Mar Cebiceria. At first it seemed liked such an unlikely candidate for a gastronomic destination but after a few days I learned about the diversity of produce available in the country. Peru has an astounding 4000+ varieties of potatoes that are native to the region. The coastline is 2,500km long. So, it has one of the world’s great fisheries, the third-biggest after China and Indonesia. The ceviche at La Mar is superlative, their Leche de tigre packs quite a flavor punch. Pisco sour is a cocktail of choice when in Peru. The primary ingredient is Pisco, a high ABV distilled liquor made from grapes. 

6. Cusco is usually the starting point for visitors heading to Macchu Picchu but it is a charming city on its own. It is located at an elevation of 3400 meters above sea level much which is much higher than Macchu Picchu at 2430 meters. So, altitude sickness is very common. I distinctly remember feeling lightheaded and confused right from the time when we landed at the airport. It took almost 3 days and plenty of coca tea to acclimatize to the high altitude. Machu Picchu was a breeze after this but it is recommended to plan one’s itinerary with a gradual increase in elevation. One of the best things to do in Cusco is to relax and take in the views from one of the cafes in Plaza De Armas. It is also not uncommon to see Andean women dressed in native clothing along with their Alpacas in Cusco. Many will oblige for photos in exchange for a small donation.

7. The Sacred Valley of the Incas is a valley formed by the Urubamba river. The early Incas had inhabited the Sacred Valley for its geographical advantages. The lower elevation and fertile valley allowed large scale cultivation of maize(corn) using terrace farming techniques. Corn was a prestige crop for them. It was used to make the fermented corn drink called Chicha Morada. The ruins of agricultural terraces at Moray, Ollyanthambo and Pisaq are all proof of this. 

8. Peruvian Corn (also called Cusco corn) is very distinct from the sweet corn varieties found in rest of the world. This Peruvian variety has much larger kernels with a starchy and chewy texture. Commonly served as an accompaniment to ceviche, it is also eaten with cheese (choclo con queso). 

9. Machu Picchu was exactly as magical as it looked it pictures. My jaw dropped as I got my first glimpse. Thanks to Hiram Bingham, an American academic and explorer who re-discovered this hidden Incan site in 1911. It was very interesting to learn about the cultural beliefs and agricultural innovations of the Incas. The masonry skills of the Incas are best showcased in the structures that are still intact. No mortar was used and stones were cut exactly to fit together. The Incas were also good astronomers, there is evidence to believe that Machu Picchu complex was once used as an astronomy lab. Today, it is one of trafficked tourist sites in the world. The free roaming Llamas at this complex are very friendly, it is not uncommon for them to photo bomb pictures. 

10. Alfajores is a popular sweet snack in Peru. It is a shortbread sandwich stuck together with dulche de leche (milk jam). It was absolutely scrumptious and even mildly addictive. While they are available at all food stores or supermarkets, the ones at La Casa del Alfajor chain are among the best. On the savory side, Empanadas (fried or baked turnovers) are popular like most of South America. It comes in all shapes and sizes with a variety of meat or vegetable fillings. 

10 things about Peru

5 things about the Canadian Rockies

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1. Banff is a resort town that is best known for its namesake national park. It is an all season destination with hiking opportunities in the summer and skiing in the winter. While most visitors use the town as the base for exploring the park, it is not without its charm. The quaint downtown has a good mix of galleries, restaurants and shopping. Banff Upper hot springs is an alluring option after a long day of park activities. It was one among the nine hot springs that were discovered on the slopes of the Sulphur mountain and is now the only one open to public. 

2. Bow Falls is located at the edge of town. It provides a sneak peak of the beauty that lies ahead in the park. It is an easy walk across its perimeter and is even possible to walk in the water at some points. Johnston Canyon is another popular stop that was carved out in the limestone bedrock due to years of water erosion. The lower falls are easily accessible via a walking trail that cuts across forest and canyon. The upper falls view point trail is a bit steeper and longer but provides a top view of the falls. The upper falls freeze during the winter and is a considered a ice climbing destination for all levels. 

3. The crown jewels in the Banff national park are definitely its glacial lakes. There are many of them strewn across the park shimmering in various hues of blue. These colors are a result of salt and minerals that these lakes absorb on their way. The best among them are certainly Lake Louise and Moraine Lake. Flanked by snow capped mountains on three sides, Lake Louise color changes with the movement of clouds. On my visit, the lake was an ethereal turquoise green. Due to its easy accessibility, it seemed popular with bus tours. The best way to take it all in is by kayaking the lake. It felt like a dream floating through the glistening lake. Moraine Lake is one of the best natural sceneries that I have ever seen. The turquoise blue is so vibrant that I simply couldn’t take my gaze away. No one can take a bad picture here but even the best cameras can do justice to this beautiful lake. 

4. Columbia Icefield is the largest ice field in the Rocky mountains. It covers an area of 125 square miles extending into northern edges of Banff national park and the southern edge of Jasper national park. The Athabasca glacier is one of the few accessible areas in the icefield. It does take some serious transportation to set foot on the glacier though. So, a visit is very expensive. Then again, it is a unique experience to hop on one of those all terrain vehicles that are only deployed elsewhere in Antartica. The winds on the glacier do pack a vicious chill factor even during peak summer. Climate change has even impacted this monstrous glacier, it is said to have retreated more than 1.5 kms and also lost half of its volume.

5. Jasper national park is overshadowed its cousin Banff but has its share of beautiful glacial lakes.Jasper is known for its wildlife – caribou, moose, elk are easily spotted. I even noticed grizzlies crossing the road here. Athabasca falls is easily the best spot in the park. Although not very high, the flow is very powerful due to the large quantity of water it pushes into the gorge. 

5 things about the Canadian Rockies

5 things about Brussels, Belgium

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1. Brussels is the administrative capital of the Europe Union. Although the EU parliament is located in Strasbourg, France, the daily operations are run out of the EU offices in Brussels.Through the modern ages, Belgium was ruled by generations of Hapsburgs before becoming independent in 1831 following a revolution. Brussels was declared the capital city and has remained so ever since. The cultural identity of both the city and nation were shaped by the mixed heritage of the Hapsburg rulers. Belgium has 3 official languages – Dutch, French and German. Dutch or Flemish (a Belgian version of Dutch with French influence) is the most prevalent but French is widely spoken as well especially in Brussels.

2. Grand Place is the most popular square in Belgium. The name is derived from the grandness of the Baroque, Gothic and Neo-gothic structures in the Square. The Town Hall is definitely the center piece but the guild houses are prominent too. The square is considered to be the starting point for the city of Brussels itself. It started out as a fort but commerce took over and marketplaces for bread, cloth and meat trading were added. The town hall and other structures came much later. All except the town hall were destroyed in 1695 by the French army during a battle with the League of Augsburg. It was rebuilt by the city’s guilds but continue to declined before being revitalized in the late 19th century. Today, the Square is great place to grab a beer or a meal and soak in the atmosphere. Manneken Pis is a sculpture that depicts a naked boy urinating into the fountain’s basin. It is unclear what led to its popularity but for some reason it is considered a stop when in the vicinity of Grand Place. 

3. Atomium is a popular tourist attraction that was constructed for the World Expo that was held here in 1958. It is shaped like an atom with nine spheres. The shape is cool but I was fascinated to learn that it was never intended to last beyond the expo timeframe but it became too popular to be dismantled. It was even renovated in the early 2000s and now serves as a museum. It was much smaller than I thought. So, I passed on the viewing opportunity from the topmost sphere. 

4. Belgian cuisine may not have made much of a name outside the country. But we are guaranteed to have heard of the Belgian waffle, an American appropriation. In Belgium, there are two types of waffles – Brussels Waffle and Liege Waffle. Brussels waffles are light and crispy with deep pockets as they are made with a yeast leavened batter while the Liege waffles are thick and chewy as they are made with bread like dough with pearl sugar mixed in. Visually, they are easily distinguishable with Brussels waffle being rectangular with defined edges while the Liege one is uneven. My pick was definitely the liege waffle at the local chain Belgaufra. It is a great snack to eat on the go and stands on its own with its caramelized sugar coating. Maison Antoine is known for the thick thrice cooked fries. It was served with mayo and it totally made me question about this thing called Ketchup. Maison Dandoy is a classy joint for a cup of coffee. Plus, they serve delicious waffles, hot chocolate and their famous gingerbread. 

5. Connoisseurs of chocolate rejoice, Brussels is known for it. There is interesting history behind it too. Even though Spanish explorers introduced the Belgian royalty to cocoa in the 17th century, it was the colonization of Congo that gave Belgium access to high quality cocoa.This helped Belgium become be the top trader of raw cocoa as well as chocolate. It was Jean Neuhaus that pioneered the boutique chocolate business in Brussels in 1857 by converting his pharmacy to a chocolaterie. His grandson, also a Jean cemented that position by inventing the now famous praline in 1912. Godiva was started in Brussels by the Draps family with their own version of the praline in 1926 and is now a worldwide brand. Leonidas, another global brand was born in Ghent but soon established their brand in Brussels. Today, chocolatiers like Pierre Marcolini are carrying on the legacy. Everything I tried there blew my mind. 

5 things about Brussels, Belgium

7 things about Seville, Spain

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1. The origins of Seville data back to the 8th century BC when it was an island on Guadalquivir river. It was called Hisbaal by the Phoenicians and by the Tartessians who predated Romans on the Iberian peninsula. It later flourished as a market and an industrial center under the Romans and was referred to as Hispalis. The Moors(Muslim rulers from the Barbary coast) conquered Hispalis in 712 and made it the capital of the Cordoba Caliphate which was ruled by the Umayyad dynasty who had their origins in Mecca. The Muslim rule continued under the Almoravid and Almohad dynasties who were both from North Africa. King Ferdinand of Castile led the conquest of Andalusia in 1247 and finally took over Sevilla after a 15 month long siege. 

2. 500 years of Moorish rule left a lasting impression on Seville. Most notably, in terms of architecture referred to as Mujedar art. It was characterized by ornamental elements like calligraphy, intricate geometry and vegetal forms. The term Mujedar was used to refer to Muslims who remained after the Christian reconquest. The most notable example of Mujedar art can be seen at the Alcazar of Sevilla. Alcazars were residential fortresses built by the Moorish kings but the Christian kings like Pedro I, Isabella and Fernando embraced the architecture style and built their own palaces in the complex. The patios and gardens in the Alcazar complex are absolutely breathtaking. Filled with verdant trees, orchards and fragrant flowers, these gardens also serviced the needs of the royal kitchen.

3. Seville Cathedral was commissioned to celebrate Sevilla’s growing wealth and power after the Reconquista led by King Ferdinand. Upon inauguration, it became the largest Gothic church in world. So, every characteristic of Gothic architecture like large stained glass windows, vaulted ceilings, pointed arches, ornate decorations can be found in abundance. However, it was built on top of the Almohad mosque which was christianized after the Reconquista. So, some of those aspects have survived. The mosque’s courtyard was converted to a stunning tree lined courtyard called Patio de los Naranjos. The mosque’s minaret was extended and made into a bell tower called Giraldi. 

4. Plaza de Espana is one of the iconic buildings in Spain. Believe it or not, it was built to host a trade fair, Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. The building consists of tall towers at both ends and a canal along its perimeter. Colorful tiles dedicated to each of the 49 provinces of Spain are embedded in the front facade of the building. Being adjacent to the city’s planned green belt in Maria Luisa park, it is an easy stop for a great photo-op. 

5. Bull fighting seemed to have been derived from gladiator contests from Roman times. But it not only managed to survive but also thrive in Iberia. Moors, Catholic, Bourbons all banned bull fighting under their rule but eventually relented and let the tradition continue. Costillares, a bullfighter from Sevilla is considered the father of modern day bullfighting which is staged as performance as much as a blood sport. Incidentally, he was also one of the first performers at the Plaza de toros de la Real Maestranza in Seville. Maestranza is an impressive bull ring with a capacity of 12,000. The color palette (yellow, white,brown) of the ring is also aesthetically pleasing. The ring is worth a visit even outside of the fighting season which runs from March to October. 

6. Flamenco is a beautiful art form that is a combination of guitar music and an evocative dance performance. Known to have originated from the nomadic Roma tribe, flamenco is now an important part of Andalusian identity. The high pitched strumming by the guitarist combined with the intense dance moves with foot stomping and clapping can propel the audience through a wide range of emotions. There are a number of performance centers in Sevilla but the shows at Museo del Baile Flamenco are both intimate and affordable. 

7. Food was simple, local and seasonal. A lot of dishes centered around beans, cheese and cod fish. More than standalone restaurants, bars were the place to grab a meal. They were happy to serve tapas as full plates on request. On the sweeter side, Bar Del Comercio serves solid churros con chocolate but the Fiorentina Heladeria is known for their Andalusian ice-cream flavors. My favorite flavor was the roasted chestnut which is also a popular street food in this region. 

7 things about Seville, Spain

10 things about Tokyo, Japan

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1. Japanese culture is known to be insular but it has fascinating extremes. At one end of the spectrum are overly formal things like elaborate tea ceremonies and at the other end there are crazy irreverent things like anime, exotic fetish clubs including kogals (young women in uniforms), fuzoku(“pleasure”services) culture.

2. I thought America symbolized convenience with 24 hours availability of almost anything. Japan takes it to a whole another level with a mind boggling variety of vending machines that dish out almost anything and everything. 

3. It is incredible to see how Tokyo is both vast and dense, some of the wards/municipalities in the Tokyo metro region could be cities by themselves. Yet there is an understated efficiency in how the city functions, the subway in particular does a phenomenal job ferrying people from end of the metro area to another every day. For intercity travel, the Shinkansen bullet trains are simply the gold standard for the world to emulate (China likely being the only exception). They are known for their punctuality so much so that apologies are issued for even 1-2 minute delays.

4. While every neighborhood in Tokyo is self contained, they do have their unique characteristics. Akhiabhara is a treasure trove for gaming, manga, electronics geeks alike. There is a smaller version of Akhiabhara across town in Ikebukuro. Ginza is the shopping district dominated by showrooms of global brands while Roppongi is jeweled with upscale restaurants in high rises and classy bars. Harajuku is great for people watching and its is not uncommon to see some of Tokyo’s best haute couture here. It also the home to the beautiful tree lined boulevard, Omotesandō and numerous themed cafes along its side streets. Needless to say, it was my favorite neighborhood. Shibuya and Shinjuku are both busy and have a ‘Times Square’ vibe thanks to a plethora of digital billboards. 

5. The Meiji Shrine is of great significance to the Japanese. It is dedicated to Emperor Meiji and his wife in honor of their role in reforming the political system and modernizing the country. The campus of the shrine is very serene thanks to the abundance of vegetation in the form of 120,000 trees. Being adjacent Yoyogi park and the trendy Harajuku neighborhood, it attracts both visitors and locals alike. Harajuku is great for people watching and its is not uncommon to see some of Tokyo’s best haute couture. It also the home to the beautiful tree lined boulevard, Omotesandō and numerous cafes along its side streets. Needless to say, it was my best favorite neighborhood. Shibuya and Shinjuku are both busy and have a ‘Time Square’ vibe thanks to a plethora of digital billboards. 

6. While Kyoto is home to some of the best Buddhist temples in Japan, Tokyo has Sensoji. It has all the hallmarks of classic temple architecture –  large gently curved roof, storied pagoda, main hall with the altar and entrance gates. However, Sensoji temple has an attractive red color that glistens at night. It is dedicated to Kannon, goddess of mercy. It is also known as the Asakusa Kannon temple.

7. There is no better place to try sushi on the planet. Japan obsesses over the quality of their fish. Chefs form long standing relationships with their suppliers to source the best. Tsukuji market used (now relocated and renamed as Toyosu market) to be the place that enabled chefs to identify those suppliers.The 4am tuna auctions with its eye watering bids are testament to that obsession with quality. No wonder Tokyo has the most 3 Michelin star restaurants in the world. There a few omakase joints adjoining the market, most notably Sushi Dai and Sushi Daiwa. After a long wait, I was glad to try my first ever sushi at Daiwa. The Itamae (or the master sushi chef) contrary to popular opinion was very friendly and paid close attention to our likes/dislikes through the courses. 

8. After sushi, Ramen is the next big Japanese export. Due to my dietary preferences, I desperately searched for non-pork broths and it led me to Ippudo in Ginza. The chefs were surprised by this odd request for a vegetarian broth but did oblige. It underwhelmed but I am sure that it was a far cry from the traditional tonkotsu broths. The Japanese breakfast experience was much more memorable. It was fun to order a real meal on a very opinionated automated kiosk. The set consisted of a semi boiled egg, cold tofu, miso soup, salad, steamed rice and smoked fish. I couldn’t point to anything that was unhealthy. May be this is Japan’s secret to live a healthy long life. Onigiri (rice balls wrapped in nori) and Ichigo Daikfuku (whole strawberry mochi) from the neighborhood 7-11 was my stand by meal. It worked out ok because there were enough street snacks to fuel up on the go. Taiyaki is especially a popular one, it is a fish shaped cake filled with red bean paste. It is typically made to order on hot coals. They aren’t too sweet so I didn’t feel guilty gobbling up a few at a time. There is no tipping anywhere and no expectation whatsoever. It was so refreshing to experience this coming from the West. 

9. There is also this fascination with high quality patisseries – Maison Kayser, Pierre Herme, Dominique Ansel, Sadaharu Aoki all have flashy outlets in Tokyo. So, there is no shortage of viennoiseries or pastries if you are a sweet tooth.

10. Tea and Zen buddhism both were Chinese imports to Japan. However, it was the Japanese that blended tea drinking and Zen principles to create a spiritual experience around it. Sen no Rikyu is widely credited for having created this rustic style referred to as Wabi-Cha. There are still traditional tea houses that are trying to preserve this tradition albeit with a few subtle twists. As a visitor, the tea ceremony at Hamarikyu Gardens is good way to get acquainted with the Japanese tea culture. Tea is served in a traditional tearoom with tatami floor surrounded by a lush garden. The ceremony is relatively informal. So, the tea is not not prepared in front of the guests but there are still some explicit etiquette definitions. Here are a few –  the wagashi(Japanese confection) served along with the tea has to be eaten first. The tea bowl should be picked up with the right hand, played on the left palm and turned so that front of bowl is no longer facing the guest. Nevertheless, it was certainly a very soothing activity.

10 things about Tokyo, Japan

7 things about Rome, Italy

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1. There are many platitudes about Rome but for a living breathing city it has incredible amount of history at every nook and corner. The survival of all those ancient Roman monuments is surprisingly due to Rome’s utter irrelevance in the medieval period when the city was almost depopulated. But the greatest contribution of the Roman Republic (509 BC) was abolishing kingship and transferring power to elected representatives called consuls. That legacy is preserved today in the emblem of Rome – SPQR “Senātus Populusque Rōmānus” translated as “The Senate and People of Rome”. 

2. Piazza is the Italian equivalent of a market square. Similar to the Spanish word “Plaza, it is derived from the Greek word plateia (broad street). Piazzas define Rome’s urban landscape. Piazza di Spagna is known for its grand steps that were built to connect the Trinita De Monti church above the hill to the Spanish embassy to the Holy See in the square. Piazza Navona is decked with baroque grandeur best represented by Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers water fountain. Piazza del Popolo (People’ Square) is by far the largest one in Rome and is similar in layout to the renowned Piazza San Pietro in the Vatican. The larger piazzas tend to have Obelisks which were mostly brought in from Egypt. 

3. Colosseum is undoubtedly the most recognized monument in the city of Rome. It is the mother of all theaters and stadiums in the world. Built to accommodate an audience of about 50,00 to 80,000 spectators, it was used to stage everything from gladiatorial contests, mock sea battles and re-enactments of Roman mythology.The hypogeum (“the underground”) consists of cages and tunnels meant for staging the animals and gladiators before the show. However, after the medieval era it seized to used for entertainment purposes and withered with time. In modern day, it is a popular tourist attraction. The tours are super informative and piques one’s interest in understanding the early Roman era. 

4. Trevi is one of the most famous fountains in the world brimming with baroque excess . The name is derived from the Latin word Trivium (intersection of three streets). The fountain is also famous for its coin throwing. It is estimated that US$1.5 million was thrown into the fountain in 2016. Pantheon is an underrated but inspiring monument that has survived since 126 AD. With its portico of Corinthian columns under a pediment, Pantheon resembles a Greek temple. In fact, it was originally a Roman temple that was later converted to a Church. Also, the word Pantheon is derived from the Greek word Pantheion translated as Temple of Gods. The interiors are grand but I was awestruck by the coffered dome with an oculus (classy word for skylight). It is easy to step back in time here as it one of the best preserved buildings from ancient Roman period. 

5. I was introduced to real gelato and it sort of ruined ice cream for me forever. The marquee gelato flavors like pistachio and hazelnut completely blew my mind. The intensity of the flavors and the creamy but not icy texture makes gelato very special. I had gelato almost everyday at the some of the popular spots –  Giolitti, Gelateria Del Gracci, Gelateria del Teatro, Gelateria Fassi. Giolitti and Gracci were my favorite but I couldn’t get the past the classic nut flavors despite multiple visits. 

6. There are fewer things Italy makes better than Pizza. The reputation of neapolitan pizza is well deserved but the Roman version was a pleasant surprise. Most pizzerias in Rome serve pizzas with a thin crispy crust unlike their airy and chewy counterparts from Naples.   The addition of oil in the dough apparently contributes to the crispness of the base. The less common Pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice) is also very good where the colorful and fancy toppings outshine the almost focaccia like crust. It is usually sold by weight and packaged to-go. Pizzarium Bonci is a star in this category. 

7. Cornetto is another variation of the classic Viennoiserie – the croissant. The cornetti though are sweeter, denser and less buttery. I am partial to the ones with filled with cream or custard. Paired with a cappuccino, there is hardly a better pick me up for the day. No wonder Italians standardized on the cornetto-capuccino combination for breakfast. 

7 things about Rome, Italy

7 things about Vienna, Austria

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1. Vienna grew from a Roman settlement called Vindobona. It developed as a trading site and became of the capital of the Babenburg dynasty. But it was the Hapsburg dynasty that elevated the profile of the city and transformed it to a major hub.

2. The early growth strategy of the Hapsburg dynasty is classic. The Hapsburg kings acquired new territories primarily through marriage. King Rudolf I of Germany laid the foundation of the empire in 1282 when he assigned the Duchy of Austria to his sons. Maximilian I married Mary of Burgundy and added Netherlands to the empire. Philip the Handsome married Joanna the Mad of Spain, thus adding more territory in the south. Their son, Charles V inherited Austria, Spain and Netherlands. Eventually, Hapsburgs became synonymous with Austria and the term ‘monarchia austriaca’ was coined. They reigned supreme until their defeat in the First World War and were formally dissolved in 1918. 

3. The Hapsburgs left behind their architectural legacy with their regal palaces – Schonbrunn, Hofburg and Belvedere. Even though Hofburg was the principal residence of the Hapsburg dynasty and continues to be the official residence of the President of Austria, Schonbrunn is undoubtedly more grand and elegant. Being the summer palace, it has a stunning garden embellished with a gloriette, parterre and a large fountain. The palace boasts of 1440 rooms with elaborate decorative tapestries and furnishings. Public tours allow visitors to get sneak peek into the lives of the Hapsburg monarchs. The Upper Belvedere palace does share some of the characteristics of Schoenbrunn especially the facade and the garden but is better known for its art collection. These design of these palaces was overwhelmingly baroque. 

4. Austrian Baroque architecture was an Italian import. Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach is one of Austria’s renowned architects. He trained under Bernini and Borromini in Rome and adopted Baroque style in his designs most notably with Karlskirche and later with the  Schonbrunn palace. Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt continued Erlach’s  Baroque legacy with his designs for Belvedere Palace and St. Peter’s Church. 

5. Vienna’s museum quarter is a sprawling complex that was originally built to serve as the imperial stables. I was more interested in the art museum across the street in Marienplatz. Kunsthistorisches Museum literally translated as Museum of Art History is the largest museum in the country. Established by Emperor Franz Joseph I with the intention of making the royal collection of the Hapsburg dynasty accessible to the general public, the museum’s design and ornamentation is on par with the palaces. The grand stairway and the cupola make it obvious that no expense was spared. The collection is massive and worth of days of exploration. The paintings from Renaissance era greats like Raphael, Michelangelo and Pieter Brueghel are highlights.

6. Viennese State Opera is a massive theatre complex that is the crown jewel of the culture venues in Vienna. Not only can it seat 1700 people, it has every bit of aristocratic flair with red velvet seats, rich tapestry and panoramic booths. I only had a chance to grab the standing room seats which are issued 90 minutes prior to the show. For 10 euros, I was able to experience Viennese opera but it was bit strenuous for a 3 act play. 

7. Today, cafes are flourishing everywhere in the world serving coffee, food and a convivial atmosphere to meet and socialize. But Viennese coffee houses had been so for hundreds of years now and incredibly proud of it. So much so that Viennese coffee house culture was included by the UNESCO in the national inventory of intangible cultural heritage.The Austrians have to thanks the Ottomans for introducing then to coffee on way or the other. Legend has it that one Mr Georg Franz Kolschitzky discovered the magic beans left over by the Turks and started the a cafe in the city. However, the first coffee house in Vienna was actually opened by an Armenian Diodato. He got this expertise from his home country which unsurprisingly also happened to be part of the Ottoman empire.  Coffee houses in Vienna are about practicing slow life. Part of the allure is in the regal old school old ambience that coffee houses like Cafe Dreschler, Cafe Sperl, Cafe Hawelka have managed to preserve till today. The high ceiling embellished with grand chandeliers, cosy interiors and delicious strudels. It was as romantic as it sounds. The tradition of tendering change from a purse was very unique.

7 things about Vienna, Austria

7 things about Vatican City

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1. Vatican is a city-state and the smallest one at that with an area of just 49 hectares and resident population of 825. However, it is a sovereign entity recognized by international law governed by the Holy See. Named after the Vatican hill on which it is situated, the city state was born in 1929 because of the Lateran Treaty which put to rest a long standing sovereignty dispute between the Pope and the Republic of Italy. 

2. The economy of Vatican City is supported by the sale of stamps, coins, souvenirs as well as admission fees to Vatican museums. There is even a post office in the St Peter’s plaza that is popular with visitors to mail postcards back home. However, the budget of the Holy see is entirely different. It is funded by donations collected from Catholics worldwide as well as a slew of investments in real estate, stocks and stakes in Italian companies. 

3. Vatican Museum is a wealth of paintings from important artists across multiple eras. The frescoes in Raphael rooms is one of the greatest works of the  influential Renaissance painter, Raffaelo Sanzio.One could spend days if not months in the museum taking in all the art if not for the unrelenting crowds. Unsurprisingly, it is the fourth most visited museum in the world. As for me, I couldn’t take my eyes off the ceilings. They were equally studded with art. 

4. Sistine Chapel located in Apostolic palace is considered the epitome of the Renaissance era art thanks to all the amazing frescos from greats like Botticelli, Peruguino, Rosselli, Pinturicchio and Michelangelo. Sistine Chapel was originally called the Great Chapel, it was renamed in memory of Pope Sixtus IV who led the restoration and led its first mass in 1483. It was only under Pope Julius almost 25 years later did Michelangelo paint the ceiling frescoes. He returned to create his Magnum Opus ‘Last Judgment” which survives till date. It is glorious but the amount of nudity in the painting can be a bit jarring given it is in one of the most exclusive places of the Catholic Church. Sistine Chapel is also the site of the Papal conclave, the process in which Popes are chosen. To preserve all of this for future generations, photography is prohibited. 

5. St Peters Basilica is truly an impressive building. It was meant to awe inspire visitors and it definitely does that with its grand hallways and richly decorated interiors. It is the largest church in the world and is the holiest of holy sites for the Catholic community. The view of the plaza from the top of Basilica is fantastic. The tall obelisk at the centre of the plaza is an import from the Egyptian civilization. The papal audience day (typically Wednesdays) held in the square is an intense religious experience for Catholics. 

6. The guards dressed in colorful Renaissance gear are officially the armed forces unit of the Holy See although they don’t look the part. The recruits to the Swiss Guard must be unmarried Swiss Catholic males between the ages of 19 and 30 and must have completed armed forces training in this Swiss army. The history of Swiss Guard dates dates back to the 15th century when Pope Sixtus IV made an alliance with the Swiss rulers back then to recruit Swiss mercenaries.Today, they are primarily tasked with protecting the Pope.

7. The Vatican bank ATMs offer Latin as a language option. It is the only bank in the world to do so. It probably made Robert Langdon very happy. 

7 things about Vatican City

7 things about Athens, Greece

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1. There is incredible history in and around Athens. While it was surreal to be in places where one of the greatest civilizations once thrived, it was also sad to see the neglect of many of these priceless monuments. It was not uncommon to see jaded guards sitting on stones in blazing sun trying to do their best to safeguard the ancient ruins from carefree visitors. Of course, the ground realities are always complex especially with an ailing economy.

2. An acropolis is designed to be the citadel of a settlement. It is typically built at an elevated location with precipitous sides. It is derived from the Greek words – akros(highest) and polis(city). Parthenon is the most important structure in the Acropolis of Athens. It was commissioned by Pericles of Athens in 447 BC to honor goddess Athena as well as to commemorate the Greek victory against the Persians. The Parthenon was converted to a Christian church under Constantine the Great  and to a mosque under the Ottomans. It was heavily damaged in the Venetian siege of the city aimed at unseating the Ottomans. The Greeks finally reclaimed it during the war of independence and have been restoring it ever since. Located at the base of the Acropolis is the ancient amphitheatre called Odeon of Herodus Atticus. This theater was built in the Roman times by the Roman philosopher, Herodes Atticus.

3. Adjacent to the Acropolis is the bohemian neighborhood of Plaka. It is closest to the Greek island vibe without getting on a boat. Next to Plaka is the neighborhood of Monstriaki which is home to several ancient ruins. Notable ones include the Roman Agora which was designed as an open air mall. During the reign of Hadrian, a library was added to the complex referred as Hadrian’s library. Today, the Monstriaki Square is buzzing with tourist and locals alike relaxing and enjoying a meal with a view of the Acropolis. 

4. The site of ancient Agora is one of the largest excavation sites in Athens.The Stoa of Attalus was built as a trade market by the king of Pergamus, Attalus, between 159-138 B.C. It was extensively restored and serves a museum hosting the artifacts found in the ancient Agora complex. The long floors and marble columns are magnificent and makes it easy to imagine the commerce that happened eons ago. Located directly above on a hill is the temple of Hephaestus. It is one of the best preserved ancient temples in Greece.The design aesthetic is similar to that of the Parthenon as it was designed by the same architect, Iktinus. Lycabettus hill is the highest point in Athens and offers panoramic views of the entire city including the every single ruin mentioned above. 

5. There was crisis in the Greek economy starting 2009 spawning a decade long recession. The repercussions of which hit the people hard including record levels of youth unemployment. During my visit daily protests about the economy at Syntagma Square (opposite to Greek Parliament) were not uncommon. Barring minor conveniences, it did not impact me but it was eye opening to see the economic impact as well as democracy at work. 

6. My first meal in Athens started with the Greek salad known to Greeks as just salad. It consisted of a giant slab of feta , cooked chickpeas, onions, tomatoes finished with a generous drizzle of olive oil. It was simple but very refreshing. The freshness of the ingredients made all the difference. I went back for my salad fix everyday. 

7. Gyros, hookahs and frappes are ubiquitous. Frappe (iced coffee) is strong and sweet. It was an accidental innovation that was born at the Thessaloniki International Fair in 1957 when an caffeine starved Nestle sales executive used cold water and ice to make his coffee. Greeks didn’t see like dessert people but there is lot of baking heritage shared with Turks and Arabs thanks to the Ottoman rule. Galaktompoureko is a Taverna stand by. It is a sweet pie with sweet custard encased in layers of flaky phyllo and soaked in sugar syrup. Loukamades are equally popular – they are airy donuts topped with honey and cinnamon

7 things about Athens, Greece