7 things about Budapest, Hungary

January 8, 2021January 10, 2021 Sud-ScribeLeave a comment

1. Budapest is divided into two by the Danube river – Buda and Pest. However, it was originally created by merging 3 cities – Buda, Óbuda and Pest in 1873. The origins of the city go back to Roman times. It was founded as Aquincum. Romans were succeeded by the Huns, Germanic tribes and Avars. The Bulgarians scattered the tribes while one clan stayed back and established the Arpad dynasty. It was under them that Hungary was born and established as a Christian state. But after a couple of centuries of relative stability, the Ottomans and Hapsburgs occupations ensued. After the Austro Hungarian compromise of 1867, there was a period of phenomenal growth and building. Pest was actually modeled after Paris and built to include to large boulevards and gardens. The 20 century was more tumultuous dominated by Nazi influenced fascist rule followed by a very long Soviet occupation. It was only in 1989 that Hungary became an independent republic.

2. Buda and Pest (pronounced as Phest) are twin cities and have their distinct personalities. Geographically, Buda is hilly while Pest is flat. Buda has a more aristocratic air to it with the former Austrian Hapsburg court reigning from Castle Hill.They are 8 bridges connecting Buda and Pest today but they were mostly rebuilt after being destroyed in the second world war. The Heroes’ Square and St Stephen’s Basilica are important monuments on the Buda. The Heroes’s square was built to commemorate the thousandth anniversary of the Hungarian conquest of the Carpathian Basin. Hence, the complex prominently features the seven chieftains of the Magyars. The St Stephen’s Basilica is one of the highest churches in the country and is named after the first king on Hungary. It is also one of the tallest buildings in Budapest.

3. Buda Castle district preserves the history of Budapest in a nutshell. The Royal Palace and the Gothic Mathias Church are wonderful pieces of architecture. The fisherman’s bastion is built to enjoy those beautiful views of Pest especially the parliament. I could have sat there for hours if not for the cold weather during my visit. The castle funicular was intended to make the climb up the hill a bit easier but it just a tourist attraction now. It is worth it for views of the Széchenyi Chain Bridge and the St Stephen’s Basilica but the lines can be long.

4. The parliament building is worth the trip by itself. It was designed by architect Imre Steindl who ironically went blind and died before its completion. His design was apparently inspired by the architecture of the British parliament. Built in neo-gothic style with intricate ornamentation, it has a symmetrical facade and a dome in the centre. The interiors are equally well anointed with gold and velvet hues dominating the color palette.The building tour is the only way to get a glimpse into the insides of the building. While the tours can get a bit crowded at times, it is still worth it.

5. Fozelek was my go to dish in the meat heavy Hungarian cuisine.It is made by cooking vegetables and/or beans to a mush and thickened with roux or sour cream very similar in texture and taste to the Indian Khichdi. But I kept discovering interesting street food that made it easier. Langos is a deep fried bread similar to the native America Navajo bread topped with sour cream. It is usually made to order and eaten hot to enjoy the greasy fatty goodness. The Kürtöskalác or chimney cones is an addictive sweet snack. It is cross between a bread and pastry. It is made with raised dough that is rolled and wrapped on a dowel, rolled in sugar and baked on an open rotisserie grill. The caramelized sugar makes the outer layer crunchy while the insides are soft and doughy. It is perfect for a long walk along the river bank. While the food scene at the newish Central Market was underwhelming, I had a comforting meal at an old school Hungarian restaurant, Kadar Etkezde in the Jewish Quarter. The senior waitress fully intended that I leave stuffed but I had to make do with Fozelek yet again due to my dietary restrictions.

6. The cafe culture in Budapest only rivaled by Vienna. There are many 3rd wave coffee shops but places like Café Gerbeaud and Ruszwurm reek of old school elegance and warmth. While Gerbeaud is pricier and touristy, the pastries are definitely fantastic. I couldn’t get a reservation for a dine-in experience but the warm servers at the pastry counter sent me home with one too many pastries. Dobos Torte was my favorite. Named after the famed Hungarian pastry chef Josef Dobos, it is a sponge cake layered with chocolate butter cream and topped with caramel. Apparently, it was intentionally designed for a long shelf life compared to other cakes at that time. Dare I say that the infamous Sacher Torte here was better tasting than the ones in Vienna.

7. Thermal baths are remnants of the Roman and the Turkish period but the city is blessed with hot springs. In fact, Budapest was crowned at the “City of Spas” in 1935. While the Rudas and Lukács Baths were originally built during the Turkish period, the bigger and popular ones – Gellert and Széchenyi were built in the early 20th century. Széchenyi Baths is a massive complex that is served by two hot springs with temperatures ranging from 74C to 77C. Of course, they are made tolerable with cold water. The whole experience is well designed and the Neo-Baroque architecture adds more aesthetic appeal. Baths are popular among locals as well. It is not uncommon to find bands of seniors engrossed in chess in the milder thermal pools.

5 things about Brno, Czech Republic

January 4, 2021January 4, 2021 Sud-ScribeLeave a comment

1. Brno is no Prague or Cesky Krumlow but it is a charming little town nevertheless. However, it was of great political significance and served as one of the seats of governance for the Moravian region starting with the Great Moravian empire since the 11th century. It became the sole capital of Moravia in 1648 after Olomouc was captured by the Swedes in the Thirty Years’ War. Today, it is still the capital of South Moravian region administered by the Czech Republic.

2. Brno was besieged by Hussites (15th century), Swedes (17th century), Prussians (18th century) but none of them were successful in conquering the city. The city was also referred to as Brunn (German Brunn) as the city had a large German population in the early 20th century. The Old Town Hall has a crocodile figurine hanging from the ceiling. Referred to as the Brno dragon, the legend is that it threatened the local people and was overcome with a clever hack.

3. The Freedom square is usually a great place to hangout with food stalls, markets and street performances. It also has the astronomical clock which is a shiny black marble obelisk. It has some interesting history associated with it. In 1645, Swedes had laid siege to Brno for 3 months but were unable to force a surrender. Apparently, the Swedish general exhausted his patience eventually and chose to withdraw if the city did not fall by noon. However, some ingenious people of Brno turned the clock to read noon an hour early i.e 11 o’clock. The general promptly walked away. This clock was installed to commemorate that event and releases glass marbles everyday at 11. However, I simply couldn’t figure out how to read time from it.

4. Spilkberg Castle’s facade is very similar to that of Bratislava castle.The castle itself is not that impressive but the garden and outdoor areas are beautiful and well maintained. It was once notorious as a prison under the Austro Hungarian empire.The views of the Cathedral of Peter and Petrov from the castle are great. The Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul with its baroque interiors and Gothic style towers is one of the most important pieces of architecture in the Moravian region. Thee bells of the cathedral are also rung at 11 o’clock in the morning instead of 12 noon for same reason as above.

5. Local food seemed very functional – lots of cabbage, potatoes and hearty meat soups but there were a good number of “international” options like burger, pizza, pasta as well.

10 things about Lisbon, Portugal

January 3, 2021 Sud-ScribeLeave a comment

1. Lisbon is a picturesque city and easy to fall in love with. The hilly neighborhoods with their bright red roofed houses and pastel colored walls is as quaint as it gets for any capital city. But most of it was constructed after the devastating 1755 earthquake financed by the gold riches from the region of Minas Gerais in their colony, Brazil. But the foundation of Lisbon was laid by the Phoenicians. It was then conquered by Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Germanic tribes and finally by the Moors. Alfonso I of Asturias undid the Moorish conquest. Alfonso III moved the capital from Coimbra to Lisbon and laid the foundation for centuries for maritime expansion. In the end, it was the merchant class that made the port of Lisbon one of the most important in the world. They enthroned the Aviz dynasty and helped establish Casa da Guiné e Mina which evolved into Casa de India to manage Portuguese trading interests (including slave trade) across Asia, Africa and Brazil.

2. The tram system is very convenient and affordable. A ride on the heritage Tram 28 is a must since it crisscrosses almost every old neighborhood – Baixa, Chaido, Bairro Alto, Alfama. Miradouro de Santa Luzia viewpoint in the Alfama neighborhood is a popular stop on this tram. The funiculars were designed for the citizens of Lisbon to navigate the hilly train. The Elevador da Glória is a fun ride ending at San Pedro de Alcántara viewpoint in the artsy Bairro Alto neighborhood.

3. Portuguese ceramic tiles called Azulejo are renowned. It is hard to miss them in Lisbon. Almost every house and commercial building have facades with colorful azulejos in them, each of it is a work of art. These ceramic tiles were a cultural influence of the Moorish rule in the Iberian Peninsula. King Manuel I of Portugal brought home these tile making techniques he observed in Sevilla which was then the centre of the tile industry.

4. Praça do Comércio is one of the older commercial centres in Lisbon. While the square is great for people watching, the sunset views from the top of Rua Augusta arch are stunning. Boulevard Rua Augusta connects to the square which is flanked by pretty yellow buildings on two sides and opens up to the Tagus river at the other end. The arch itself was built to commemorate the reconstruction of Lisbon after the 1755 earthquake. It is decorated with statues of some important citizens of Portugal like the explorer Vasco da Gama, Marquis of Pombal (diplomat who led the reconstruction of Lisbon after the earthquake) and Viriato (war resistance hero from Roman times).

5. Portuguese baked offerings are rather under rated. The egg custard tarts(pastel del nata) have got their fair share of fame across in the culinary world especially the ones at Belem(Pastel de Belém) are world famous and does lives to the hype. But there are a variety of pasteles and cakes that live in relative obscurity. Although I have to admit, they end up looking very similar with their brown and yellow hues. Pastel de Santiago (almond cake/pie), pastel del moscato, patas de veado (swiss roll topped with egg custard) and Bolo rei (King’s cake) are among the few that I sampled.

6. Bacalhau (dry salted cod) is as ubiquitous as it gets and probably the national dish of Portugal. It is usually into made into croquettes(pasties de bacalhau) or stews but there are probably hundreds of Bacalhau based Portuguese recipes. Bacalhau itself was a result a clever hack invented by sailors to transport cod from distant seas to their homeland. Cod preserves well with salting and drying as it has a lower oil content compared to other fish. As time went by, Portuguese palates acclimatized to the preserved version and is now a kitchen staple. Giginja is a cherry liqueur made by soaking sour cherries and spices in a high proof alcohol. It is sharp, sour, sweet and strong, licorice-ish but better. Aguardente de Medronho dubbed as firewater is what you drink to get hammered quick. It is vile and will heat up your throat on its way down.

7. Fado music is very unique to Lisbon. It is very evocative and meant to create ‘saudade’ which is a feeling of longing. It is thought to have originated in the sailor bars of Alfama wherein sailors would express their pent up emotions from their maritime explorations. Today, it has evolved into a performance art. There are plenty of Fado dinners to get a taste of this soulful musical style.

8. Belem has more to it than Pastéis de Belém although that alone is a good enough reason to pay a visit. The Jerónimos Monastery which is down the road is a UNESCO monument with stunning ornamentation both in the Santa Maria church and the adjoining cloister. Belem tower might look pretty with its whitewashed walls and intricate carvings but it was primarily built as a defensive post. The ground floor once housed 16 cannons. The prisoners pits are unique due to the space constraints in the tower but then again human race hasn’t changed much in this regard even centuries later. Thankfully, It was later transformed into a lighthouse.

9. The Santa Marta beach at Cascais is perfect for a sunny day. The beach isn’t too crowded and there is a nicely restored lighthouse that is a perfect backdrop for sunsets.Sintra merits a few days on its own but I was glad I squeezed in at least day trip.Quinta da Regaleira is by far the most fascinating building that I have ever visited. It is so mystical and worthy of days of exploration so much so that I could write an essay about it.

10. Sintra merits a few days on its own but I was glad I squeezed in at least day trip.Quinta da Regaleira is by far the most fascinating building that I have ever visited. It is so mystical and worthy of days of exploration so much so that I could write an essay about it.

5 things about Bratislava, Slovakia

December 7, 2020 Sud-Scribe3 Comments

1. To be honest, one of reasons I went here was because it was a short train ride from Vienna. On second thought, the boat cruise would have been much more fun but was also more expensive and time consuming. As soon as alighted from the inter-city train, I noticed the contrast with Vienna. It had the rusticity of a developing country but I learned that Bratislava is one of the richest regions by per capita GDP. Although English is widely spoken, many vendors usually the older generation were much more comfortable with Russian.

2. Bratislava like major European cities has a long history going all the way back to the times of Celtics and Romans. However, it peaked under the Habsburg dynasty. As the Ottomans advanced into the heart of Europe and capture Buda, Pozsony became the capital of the Kingdom of Hungary. It served as the seat of the Habsburg empire seeing coronations of 11 kings and 8 queens including the longest reign of Maria Theresa. The modern name, Bratislava was agreed upon when the country of Czecho-Slovakia was created.

3. The main draw in Bratislava is definitely the Old Town. It is one of the better surviving medieval towns in Europe. In fact, Michael’s Gate is the oldest serving medieval fortifications in Europe.One of my favorite things was the little statues that are placed all over the old town. It was no doubt that it was meant for photo-ops but they were delightful nevertheless. Cumil (“Man at Work”) is the most popular among then. I walked to SNP bridge over the Danube river but I gave the UFO shaped observation deck a miss.

4. Bratislava Castle has been inhabited continuously from the Iron age due to its strategic location overlooking the Danube river. It served as the acropolis during the Celtic and Roman period. In the 9th century, Slavs build a palace of stone with a basilica and fortified using it using the material from the Roman buildings. Through the middle ages and until the final abolishment of the Kingdom of Hungary in 1781, Bratislava Castle (Pozsony castle under the Hungarian empire) served as the seat of many kings in the Hungarian empire. It was later converted to a seminary before being destroyed by a fire in 1811. The ruins were opened to public in 1946 and restoration work began as early as 1957 and continues in some way to the present day. I liked getting lost in the gardens and various pathways within the castle and the views of the Danube are not shabby too.

5. Food is heavily influenced by Russian cuisine given this history. At lunch I was served pelmeni introduced to me as ravioli. The dill sauce gave it away though.There are a bunch of hip cafes popping up all over town with globalization favorites like latte art and avocado toasts.

5 things about Warsaw, Poland

December 2, 2020December 7, 2020 Sud-ScribeLeave a comment

1. Warsaw or Warszawa in Polish was born out of a fishing settlement established along the banks of the Vistula river. Warsaw became the capital of Poland in 1596 when the then king of Poland, Sigismund III chose to move the capital from Krakow. It later became part of the Kingdom of Prussia in 1795 and became the capital of the Grand Duchy of Warsaw. Soon after it was annexed by the Russian empire and finally emerged as the capital of an independent Poland in 1918. Today, Warsaw like any modern city in EU promises a great quality of life for the Poles.

2. The World wars were dark times for Poland in general and Warsaw in particular. The city was obliterated by Nazi bombings in WW2 as retribution to the Warsaw uprising. The uprising itself was one of the largest resistance movement of WW2. The Old Town has been painstakingly renovated for 14 years to its colorful modern day version. Plac Zamkowy or Castle Square is at the centre of the Old town. It is a popular gathering point for visitors and locals like. Christmas, concerts, football live casts makes the square vibrant in all seasons. The red brick facade of the castle has an aesthetic appeal about it and I couldn’t enough of that color tone. The Old town market square is also picturesque and usually teeming with local artisans.

3. The Russian Communist regime influence is so obvious in many ways. Most notably, the Palace of Culture and Science 237 meters high still stands tall. It was a “gift” from Stalin to Poland and one of those things that Poles loves to hate. It is a majestic but is largely uninspiring. I actually thought that the interiors were much nicer. The view from the top was alright but I wished there was a building tour. I later found that the building was host to many conference and cultural centers.

4. Milk bars are another remnant of the communist era. They functioned as subsidized cafeterias catering to the masses. Today, some of them have been restored to provide affordable rustic meals made by adorable grandmas. Bar Bambino is a relatively modernized milk bar but the menu is still old school. Pierogis, cabbage salad, potatoes and coffee for all under $10 USD but most importantly the ladies running the cafe are very hospitable even more so to curious tourists. The Zapiecek chain is also popular for the pierogis but it felt showy and had long lines. In general, food was hearty and nutritious. I didn’t get tired of all the dill seasoning as much as I thought.

5. Warsaw was home to some major celebrities back in the day. Of which, Chopin is a world renowned and my favorite. He was pianist and composer of the Romantic age. (1800s). He spent his early years in Warsaw before moving to Paris. Fryderyk Chopin Museum captures some of this history and is a must visit for every Chopin fan. Also, the Warsaw international airport is named after him. Nicolaus Copernicus, the famous astronomer who proposed the heliocentric system i.e planets orbited the sun is also memorialized in Warsaw through statues and street names. The science museum in Warsaw is also named after him.

7 things about Munich,Germany

October 2, 2020January 13, 2021 Sud-ScribeMunichLeave a comment

1. Munich or München (home of the monks in German) came into being because of the monks of the Benedictine monastery. In 1157, the Duke of Bavaria gave his permission for the monastery to build a market and this became the foundation for the city. Munich’s coat of arms pays homage to its origins. In modern day, Munich has evolved to be the heart of the Bavarian economy as well as the German economy. It is home to six large companies including BMW, Siemens, Munich Re, Allianz which comprise the elite DAX 30 blue chip stock list of Germany. As a result, it is a prosperous city with a high cost of living.

2. Marienplatz is the downtown core of Munich. There is no dearth of biergartens here but Hofbrauhaus offers a small taste of an Oktoberfest tent throughout the year. Peterskirche (St Peter’s Church) with its whitewashed walls, golden statues and ceiling frescoes is one of the few but worthy religious monuments in the entire city. One can also climb up the church tower for a bird’s eye view of the area. The lavish wedding of Bavarian Duke Wilhelm V is recreated in a mechanical clock on the Marienplatz tower. The act involves 32 life sized figures and 42 bells and lasts about 15 minutes. It is one of those unique fun things in Munich.

3. The cycling culture could rival that of Denmark’s. There were a good number of recreational cyclists as well as commuters. After receiving a few cold stares from the locals, I learned to avoid straying into the cycles lanes which run parallel to walking lanes on the sidewalk.

4. Oktoberfest is the mother of all beer festivals. I was pleasantly surprised at the scale of the event. I was lucky enough to be around on the opening day to witness the parade and cask tapping by the Mayor. After having tried my luck at some of the popular tents, I finally found seating at the Lowenbrau tent. With a giant mug of cold beer and a bigger pretzel to boot , I rejoiced in the festive mood with some nice Germans who as I was told would continue to drink for the rest of the day.

5. The town of Dachau is about 30 minutes from Munich. It was home to one of the longest running concentration camps during Nazi rule. It was commissioned by Heinrich Himmler, the architect of the worker camps and operated from 1933 until 1945 when it was liberated. I wasn’t at all prepared for the grimness of this place. Although the camps no longer exist, the museum built around the ruins is a stark reminder of those dark days in German history. The gas chamber evoked gut wrenching emotion as I could visualize the horrors portrayed in every holocaust movie. The entry gate with the word “Albeit Macht Frei”, German for work sets you free is a symbol of how hatred was deeply embedded in the ideology of the Nazi party.

6. German food is utilitarian, hearty and nutritious. We had a couple of meals at the City Hall canteen. It was usually a breaded fried protein, mashed or boiled potatoes and strudel in custard for dessert. The classic apfelstrudel looks deceivingly simple but is scrumptious nonetheless. It can safely say that it is better than all versions of apple pie that I ever had. While I was spoilt for choice in terms of bread but viennoiseries were doughier and less buttery than their French counterparts. I had this eggy shredded pancake called kaiserschmarrn for breakfast at the Oktoberfest complex. For a sweet tooth, it is a German alternative for French toast. Spaezle is a cross between dumpling and egg noodles but I found it to be bland and doughy. It was a good standby though when vegetarian alternatives were hard to come by.

7. Trains in Germany are punctual, clean and efficient. I look forward to every opportunity to ride the Deutsche Bahn. Munich is extremely well connected and centrally located. I took advantage of it for a day trip to Salzburg.I turned out to be far more adventurous that I would have liked. It was the peak of the migrant crisis in EU with borders being sealed at short notice, I felt so fortunate and privileged to be able to cross the border back into Germany.

7 things about the Mexican Caribbean(Riviera Maya)

September 14, 2020 Sud-ScribeLeave a comment

1.Cancun is popular among spring breakers and beach seeking vacationers alike. While the beaches were very good ignoring the recent seaweed phenomenon, I thought the overall experience in the hotel zone was a tad worse than beach towns in Florida. Everything from the overpriced taxis, tourist trap restaurants led me to the conclusion that Cancun is best suited for resort travel. I was kind of relieved to decamp to Playa del Carmen.

2. Playa Del Carmen was our base for exploring the Mayan Riviera. Although it has its share of resorts hotels and timeshares, it was not as busy or isolated as the hotel zone in Cancun. The town is also much smaller. It has a busy and vibrant downtown in the form of Calle Corazon, parts of which are charming. The Ah Cacao Cafe has fantastic hot chocolate – their rich european style hot chocolate is intensely chocolatey and perfectly portioned. I was also introduced to the Rosca de Reyes cake here.It is a ring or oval shaped bread decorated with colorful candied fruits. Rosca de Reyes or the King’s Cake is baked as part of the Christmas tradition in Mexico to remember the Magi or Three Wise Men (Kings from the East) who went to adore Baby Jesus. It is customary to bake it with a doll of baby Jesus inside it and the lucky recipient would have to provide for the dinner celebration.

3. Chichen Itza was once the seat of the Mayan empire bewteen 750 to 1200 AD It is known for its well preserved ruins demonstrating Mayan expertise in astronomy. The El Castillo also known as the Temple of Kukulkan has 365 steps supposedly to mark the number of days in the calendar. During the equinoxes, a shadow in the shape of a serpent falls on the step pyramid. Chichén Itzá’s ball court is unique in the largest in America and apparently Mayans conducted their own version of hunger games here. Chichen is a long day trip from any of the hub towns in the region but drive has been made easy with a shiny new expressway, the average drive time is about 2.5 hours each way. But the crowds can be unrelenting especially during holidays and weekends when locals have no admission fees. Although we avoided entry lines be timing our visit towards the end of the day, the insides of the complex were still crowded.

4. Valladolid is a town on the way to Chichen Itza. It is designated as one of the Pueblos Magicos by the Mexican Tourism Board and is known for a variety of cenotes. It can also serve as a base for exploring the Mayan ruins at Izamal, another Pueblo Magico as well as the lesser known Ek Balam. Add on with the historic town of Merida and Uxmal, it can be its own mini trip.

5. Tulum is no doubt more bohemian and relatively underdeveloped relative to Cancun or even Playa del Carmen but it has a great collection of boutique resorts. The beaches are much more accessible and less crowded. The Mayan ruins at Tulum are as picturesque as it gets. It was primarily build as a seaport and thrived between 1200 to 1500 AD trading jade and turquoise. It is fortified on three sides and protected by a steep cliff facing the sea on the other. This site has frescoes depicting Mayan good and motifs which are not found elsewhere in the region.

6. Coba ruins are unique in the sense that they are located in the middle of a jungle similar to Tikal in Guatemala. It predates Chichen and Tulum peaking around 600 AD. The main pyramid is smaller but very steep. It is totally worth the climb though. The tricycle carts that ferry people from the gate into the ruins is unique and fun.

7. Cenotes are very unique to Mexico or at least Mexico has large number of them. They are basically sinkholes that expose ground water directly. While some cenotes have open water pools, most of them are partially or fully underground. The water inside is usually clean and has a spectacular turquoise color. Cenote Sac Actun, Cenotes Dos Ojos, Gran Cenote in Tulum and Cenote Zaci near Valladolid are popular ones. The sacred cenote at Chichen was plain sad.

5 things about Vancouver, Canada

September 14, 2020October 25, 2020 Sud-ScribeLeave a comment

1. Vancouver was originally called Granville back in the late 1800s. It was formally made a city in 1886 and was renamed to honour the British explorer George Vancouver who was the first to survey the coast in 1792. Prior to that this region was inhabited by the idendigenous people of Pacific Northwest mainly from Squamish, Tsleil-waututh and Xwméthkwyiem tribes.

2. Vancouver is a stone’s throw from Seattle. After considering several interesting and potentially scenic modes of transportation like the seaplane, Amtrak train and the speed boat via Victoria, I settled on the more accessible and affordable option – the humble greyhound bus. It was sufficient and dropped at the Pacific Central Station in under 4 hours. The border check was straightforward and probably the first time I crossed a land border checkpoint.

3. My favorite memory of Vancouver was exploring Stanley Park on foot. The scenery is beautiful with a bit more laid back vibe compared to the ones in Seattle. The views of the harbor from seawall on a sunny day is an invitation to picnic and catch up on the book lazing in the grass.

4. I did my obligatory Tim Horton’s pit stop.The coffee and donuts are ok but it is more of a tradition. Vij’s is a Vancouver staple but there are probably better options elsewhere in Canada or south of the border. The waffles with unique sauces at Medina cafe were A+ while Bella Gelateria serves some of the best gelato anywhere. In fact, James Coleridge of Bella won the awards at the Firenze gelato competition. Vancouver’s Chinatown is bustling but the real deal are apparently in the suburb of Richmond. It is known to have some of the best dim sum in North America. The Granville island public market was charming and the food hall has something for everyone.

5. Vancouver offers easy access to nature including the world class skiing zones at Whistler. I vowed to return back in the Winter but chickened out and settled for the ones closer to home at Mount Baker. Suspension bridges are a thing in Vancouver, while Capilano was built as a tourist attraction, the one at the Lynn Canyon is more charming. The Lynn Canyon park is great for hiking, its tall trees are green and leafy in the summer.

10 things about Mexico City, Mexico

August 31, 2020September 15, 2020 Sud-ScribeLeave a comment

1.Although the area around today’s Mexico City was inhabited by various indigenous tribes as early as 100 AD, it was the Aztecs that laid the foundation of an actual city – Tenochtitlán. It was initially built over a lake, the Lago de Texcoco. Aztecs built an artificial island by dumping soil into the lagoon. Remnants of this ancient city are found at the Templo Mayor museum. When the Spanish came, they demolished most of the Aztec city and built a typical Spanish style city on top of it with its characteristic grand squares, cathedrals and palaces.

2. City is a sprawling metropolis with a population of about 9 million while the greater Mexico City area is home to about 21 million people.There is the fashionable but leafy neighborhood of Condesa, fancy but uptight Polamco, the bohemian Roma and its gentrifying cousin Juarez or the artsy Coyoacán, Mexico City has something for everyone much like every large city similar to its size. While general caution needs to be exercised in parts of La Merced, Tepito, Doctores and Centro Historic they are not dangerous. Plus, there is a usually a heavy police presence in touristy parts of these “difficult” neighborhoods. I stayed in Centro Historico and it was perfectly safe at all time of the day.

3. Given that Mexico was colonized by Spain for over 300 years, the influence on the Mexican identity is well known. But the founders of Ballet Folklórico de México created a dance ensemble to showcase the culture from the Mesoamerican times.The show is a visual spectacle with a mix of colorful and acrobatic dance performances. It usually runs a few times a week at the Bella Artes Museum. Lucha Libre (wresting show similar to WWE) is the polar opposite of the ballet with its grimy venues, loud audience and affordable options. Arena Mexico and Arena Coliseo are the top choices.The luchador mask defines the identity of the wrestler and also makes a good souvenir.

4. Teotihuacan is a mesoamerican city located in the central valley of Mexico about 90 minutes drive from Mexico City. While the original city predates the Aztecs, it was them who named it as Teotihuacan – “a place where gods are created”. In modern day, it is well known for its well preserved pyramids. The Pyramid of the Sun is a massive step pyramid. The best part is that is still open for climbing. Although the steps are a bit too narrow, it is fun to climb all the way to the top and get a bird’s eye view of the ancient city.

5. Something that struck me about Mexico city were how industrious the people were. For the most part, everybody wanted to do their job well. The guy at the juice shop, the taco masters, cab drivers were very professional. Although this might seem like a random generalization, there was a certain quality to their execution that led to me this conclusion.

6. Frida Kalho and Diego Riviera are much lauded for their contribution to art in Mexico but they were controversial figures looking back into history. Frida was an accidental artist. Although affected by polio early in the childhood, it was the devastating accident that had her bedridden for months and it is during this time that she took up painting. At 22, she had an affair with her teacher Diego Riviera and eventually married him. Frida and Diego joined the Mexican Communist Party and even petitioned the Mexican government to grant asylum to the soviet leader Leon Trotsky. They even hosted him at their Casa Azul house. Despite their mutual infidelities and the resulting complicated relationship, they were married until Frida’s death. The Casa Azul now a museum is very bohemian and rustic.

7. The greenery of Chapultepec Park are the lungs of Mexico City. Flanked by Polanco, Condesa and Colonia neighborhoods, it is home to the botanical garden, art and a number of museums and the Chapultepec castle. The Museo Nacional de Antropología is a must visit, it is an expedition into the history of Mexico centered around thoughtfully curated artifacts. I liked relaxing in the park and enjoying drinks at the fancy Starbucks with its bamboo chair swings.

8. Oranges were one of the imports from Spain who themselves were introduced to it during the period of Arab domination.There is almost always freshly squeezed orange juice available at most restaurants and cafes. I got one with my breakfast everyday. It was perfectly orangey and sweet.

9. The shrimp and fish tacos at El Pescadito set the bar really high for any taco I have in the future. The seafood is fried per order and the salsas are supremely flavorful. It was flavor explosions in my mouth. Another such experience was at the Mercado Coyocan while eating the shrimp tostadas. The salsas were mind-blowing. They are masters at balancing acidity and heat. Mole has complexity of flavor. Although I wasn’t a fan of it at first, I couldn’t resist licking it off my plate at Quintonail.

10. Churros, Conchas, Chocolate complete the sweet tooth trifecta in Mexico City. Lining up at El Moro and getting a pack of fresh churros is a memory on its own. Dunk it in house made european style hot chocolate, it becomes addictive. El moro churros are not greasy, they are crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside. It was fried food perfection. While Conchas are what croissants are to the French, the ones at the El Cardenal are pillowy soft. The table side hot chocolate is much more than the show, it is absolutely delicious – intense chocolate with just the right amount of sweetness. La Esperanza bakery chain is a solid option for both Mexican panaderia breads as well as viennoiseries.

10 things about Istanbul,Turkey

August 24, 2020 Sud-ScribeLeave a comment

1.Istanbul was born as Lygos. It became Byzantium before being colonized by the Greeks led by King Byzas. It was ransacked and rebuilt by Roman emperor Septimius Severus. But it did not embark on its path to greatness until Constantine the Great laid eyes on Byzantium in 324. He emerged victorious in the civil war and established Constantinopolis as the capital city of the Roman empire in 330. After he passed on, his sons split the empire and Constantinople became the capital of the Eastern Roman empire called Byzantine empire. This empire emerged with its distinctive Greek roots and became the center of Greek Orthodox Christianity. Justinian, the famous Byzantine emperor led major conquests and built Hagia Sophia as one of the largest cathedrals of that time. The Byzantine empire waned in power and in 1453 Sultan Mehmed II besieged and took over Constantinople. He rode straight into Hagia Sophia and ordered it be converted into a Mosque.

2. Ottoman architecture is reflected in its grand mosques. Their unique style is characterized by large central domes, smaller buildings with small semi-domes and tall minarets. As I entered Sulthanamet for the first time in the dead of the night, it felt like traveling back in time.While Blue Mosque is the most popular and undoubtedly great, it can get very crowded. I found the less popular ones like Fatih, Selim, Suleymaniye, Şehzade to be better for observing the architectural nuances and to be able to generally sit in awe for longer. Each of the domes are magnificent with intricate carvings and color patterns.

3. Hamman baths were an Ottoman tradition derived from Roman baths but these days it seems to be mostly a tourist thing. My Hamman experience was weird but fun. It started with lying on a hot stone in a steamy room, followed by intense scrubbing and cold water cleansing. There are very few old school hammans still left in Istanbul, Çemberlitaş Hamami is one of them which was designed by Mimar Sinan, the chief Ottoman architect.

4. The Ottoman Empire dominated the region since its inception. The last reigning monarch of the Ottoman empire tried enacting constitutional reforms but reverted to monarchy soon after. The Young Turk movement forced the monarch to enact reforms yet again and eventually forced him out in a coup in 1913. After being defeated as an ally of Germany in the first World War, the British and French forced occupied Anatolia. During this occupation, Muslims in that territory were persecuted by Greek and Armenian rebels. A resistance movement led by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk was born and eventually led to the formation of the Republic of Turkey. It was established as a progressive state with secular civil code and political rights for women. In recent times, Ataturk Secularism has morphed into Islamist resurgence under Erdogan.

5. At most hotel/hostels, Turkish Breakfast involves a lavish spread consisting of an array of breads,cheese and spreads but is Simit is a popular on the go option. It is Turkey’s version of bagel, eaten with cheese or jam. Menemen is a simple one pan dish with eggs, tomatoes and peppers stewed together to resemble a Shakshouka but is usually topped with sausage(sujuk).

6. Baklava has become a part of Turkish culinary identity despite its Arab origins, in part due to great produce available in Turkey like the pistachios from Gaziantep. The sweetness in the Baklava can be a bit intense. Pair it with tea and it is perfect accompaniment to a good conversation. Karakoy Gullugolu and Hafiz Mustafa are local favorites but they are scores of good places all over the city. Turkish ice cream is more about the entertainment value.The addition of mastic lends a stretchy texture to the ice cream that is used for performing antics. I found the taste rather unpalatable due to its gumminess. However, I liked sahlep – a hot drink made from milk, sahlep powder (made from tubers of orchid) and topped with cinnamon and pistachios. I found it similar in consistency to the Mexican Atole. Ayran is Turkey’s version of buttermilk, Indians tourist would rejoice at its ubiquity. It is the drink of choice after most meals.

7. Turkish Coffee is basically Arabic Coffee. It is brewed in a long narrow brass pots called Cezve. Since it is unfiltered, taste is bold and caffeine hit strong. My favorite moment in Turkey was drinking coffee with a bunch of middle aged locals right off Istikal Avenue. By using a combination of broken Hindi and English, I managed to make conversation and even share a laugh or two.

8. Sulthanamet is basically the the old town of Istanbul encompassing an area that includes Hagia Sophia, the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, the Hippodrome, Topkapı Palace, and the Basilica Cisterns. Beyoglu is an upscale neighborhood with lots of foreign embassies and lot of history. It was known as Galata in the Byzantine empire. The area became the base of European merchants, particularly from Genoa and Venice, in what was then known as Pera. In fact, the Genoans built the Galata tower. The famous Istikal Caddesi is home to tons of cafes, restaurants, coffee shops and shopping.

9. Istanbul is every modern as any major European city. The business district of Maslask is home to skyscrapers of all sizes.

10. Istanbul is split into two by the Bosphorous – one part of the European sub-continent and the in the Asian side as well. The more popular monuments are in the European side but there are remnants on the Asian side as well. Ferries help connect the city – most popular route from Eminomu to Kadikoy. The Asian side is much quieter and most parts of its are mostly residential. The Kadikoy food market is popular and Bagdat Caddessi is like the 5th Avenue of Istanbul.