10 things about Taipei, Taiwan

February 9, 2026 Sud-Scribeadventure, asia, Beitou Hot Springs, Chiang Kai-shek, Din Tai Fung, Longshan Temple, night markets, Raohe Night Marke, shaobing, Taipei, Taipei 101, Taiwan, TravelLeave a comment

1. History that still shapes the present

Taiwan entered Western awareness in the 16th century when Portuguese sailors named it Formosa, meaning “beautiful.” After brief European involvement, the island came under Chinese rule, first by Ming loyalists and later the Qing dynasty. In 1895, Taiwan was ceded to Japan after the First Sino-Japanese War and remained a Japanese colony for fifty years, a period that strongly shaped its modernization. After World War II, Taiwan was placed under the Republic of China, and in 1949 the losing side of the Chinese Civil War retreated there and rebuilt the state. Decades of martial law eventually gave way to a vibrant democracy. Today, there is a quiet tension tied to the relationship with China. Patriotic sentiment runs high, but politics often split by generation, with the older generation leaning toward the KMT and younger Taiwanese strongly preferring the Democratic Progressive Party and its more skeptical view of reconciliation.

2. A dense city with real neighborhood texture

Taipei is a city of about 2.5 million people, with 7.5 million in the larger metro area. It is not a global megacity, but it is very dense, which gives rise to neighborhoods with distinct identities. Xinyi is the modern business district, while adjacent Songshan has luxury hotels, shopping, and one of the largest night markets. Wanhua is one of the oldest parts of the city, named after an indigenous word meaning canoe or raft, reflecting its early role as a trading hub. Ximending, or Ximen, is foodie central, with walkable streets and a nonstop stream of local eateries. Zhongshan feels like a more polished, upscale version of Ximen, with better international food and a quieter confidence.

3. Taipei 101 is more interesting up close

Taipei 101 is Taiwan’s most recognizable landmark and was once the tallest building in the world when it opened in 2004. What makes it interesting is not the height but the engineering. Taiwan deals with frequent earthquakes and typhoons, and the building sits close to a fault line. To handle this, a 660-ton tuned mass dampener was installed near the top to absorb movement, and it is visible to visitors. The foundation is reinforced with hundreds of piles drilled deep into bedrock. Videos from past earthquakes show just how effective this system is.

4. Monumental spaces and serious culture

The Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall is a sprawling complex of traditional architecture centered on a memorial to the state’s founder. It reminded me of the Lincoln Memorial in Washington DC, which turns out to be intentional. The National Theater and National Concert Hall nearby are also striking examples of classical design. The National Palace Museum, about 30 minutes from the city center, is the crown jewel of Taiwan’s cultural heritage and holds some of the most important Chinese art in the world, spanning thousands of years of shared history. Visit on a non-holiday if possible, as it was packed on a long weekend.

5. Hot springs on the metro line

Beitou Hot Springs is a genuine gem. It is rare to find a major city with large hot springs within city limits, and even rarer to have them accessible by metro. The Thermal Valley with its boiling sulfuric water was larger and cleaner than I expected. There are many spa hotels nearby offering hot spring pools. It is hard to go wrong, though the experience itself felt closer to a well-executed hot tub than something dramatically different.

6. Religion without rigid boundaries

Longshan Temple in Wanhua is one of Taiwan’s oldest and most important temples, founded in 1738 and primarily dedicated to Guanyin. It also houses dozens of Buddhist, Taoist, and folk deities, reflecting how religion in Taiwan is rarely confined to a single tradition. People blend beliefs depending on the moment and the need. One practice I had not seen elsewhere involved moon blocks, which are used to ask yes or no questions by tossing them and interpreting how they land. It felt practical, conversational, and very Taiwanese.

7. Din Tai Fung still earns the hype

Din Tai Fung is one of Taiwan’s most successful culinary exports, but in Taipei it feels like a world-class institution rather than a chain. Everything from reservations to ordering runs like a well-oiled machine. The food was excellent, especially the xiao long bao, with delicate skins that held hot soup perfectly. I was surprised to find a vegetarian xiao long bao, which I have not seen elsewhere. Even the sides like greens and shrimp fried rice were executed at a high level. I went back multiple times, helped by the fact that it was far more affordable than in the US.

8. Boba as a daily staple

Taiwan is the home of world-class boba tea, and it shows. It is high quality, cheap, and everywhere. My favorite classic milk tea was from Oolong Tea Project, where the tea flavor was prominent and the sweetness restrained. Chun Shui Tang was a close second but felt slightly heavier. Traditional milk teas often use non-dairy creamers, which have great mouthfeel but can feel heavy on the stomach. Fresh milk options are common in Taipei and a better alternative. Mazu Factory’s brown sugar milk was excellent but almost felt like a meal due to their use of very thick milk.

9. Breakfast done simply

Taiwan does breakfast well, mostly through small mom and pop shops serving traditional fare. The standout for me was shaobing, a sesame flatbread stuffed with an omelet loaded with scallions. Soy milk was more inconsistent than expected and often sweeter, though still worth trying. Fuhang Soy Milk was extremely crowded and touristy. The sesame buns were very good, but adding youtiao made the sandwich greasy and too heavy.

Fu Hang Soy Milk, a Michelin-rated eatery in Taipei, specializes in traditional Taiwanese breakfast dishes.

10. Night markets did not work for me

Taiwanese night markets are supposed to be legendary, but they were a miss for me. Raohe Night Market was large, but many vendors sold similar items that were mostly deep fried and average. It reminded me of American state fairs, except those benefit from being seasonal. Night markets here operate daily, and some vendors seemed genuinely bored. One was playing a mobile game while making my oyster omelet. Stinky tofu was unique, but the smell was off-putting enough that I did not want to try it again. In contrast, the noodles at Chun Shui Tang, the dumplings at Silks Palace in the National Palace Museums, scallion pancakes from a street vendor off Shilin metro station and the tofu pudding at National Concert Hall were spectacular. The pineapple cakes, however, were excellent. SunnyHills stood out as the gold standard. They are pricier, but the quality shows.

7 things about North Island, New Zealand

April 5, 2025April 5, 2025 Sud-Scribeadventure, Auckland, New Zealand, oceania, Rotorua, TravelLeave a comment

1. New Zealand was discovered and inhabited by Polynesian settlers starting in the 13th century. After repeated excursions by European explorers, it became an official British colony in 1841, then a dominion in 1907, and finally an independent country in 1947. Today, it’s a developed nation known for its high quality of life. Much of its early economic growth was fueled by the export of agricultural products—especially meat and dairy—which still account for a significant share of trade. China is now New Zealand’s biggest trading partner. That influence was subtly visible even at the airport, where shelves prominently featured President Xi Jinping’s book. Not necessarily a bad thing if the book’s a global hit—but still a bit surprising.

2. Auckland is the country’s biggest city, but it feels more like a sleepy town despite its 1.7 million residents. The downtown core—Queen Street, Hobson Street, and the areas leading to the harbor—was unexpectedly quiet and lacked the buzz you’d expect from a major city. Maybe the locals just prefer to spend their time outdoors, given the natural abundance around. Mt. Eden, a city park built around a volcanic crater, offers one of the best views of Auckland’s skyline. The boardwalk that wraps around the crater’s rim adds a nice touch and makes the short walk even more worthwhile.

3. Māori are widely recognized as the native people of New Zealand, descended from the original Polynesian settlers. While they are the second-largest ethnic group in the country, they’ve historically faced limited opportunity and poor health outcomes—similar to Indigenous communities in North America. In recent decades, successive governments have made meaningful investments not just to improve outcomes, but to celebrate Māori culture. This is visible everywhere—from bilingual street signs to cultural representation in politics and public life.

4. Rotorua is the epicenter of geothermal activity in New Zealand, filled with bubbling pools, steaming vents, and hot springs rich in sulphur. The smell of sulphur ranges from mildly off-putting to full-on rotten eggs—or, on bad days, an open sewer. But surprisingly, your nose adapts quickly. It wasn’t intolerable, just consistently unpleasant in the background. Still, the geothermal features are fascinating and absolutely worth experiencing.

5. The tree walk in the Redwoods at Whakarewarewa Forest was a fun and peaceful experience. Although the Redwoods aren’t native to New Zealand, they’ve thrived in the temperate climate. The elevated walkway gives you the feeling of being inside the forest canopy, while the massive native ferns below add a lush, almost rainforest-like atmosphere. It was a calm, immersive way to spend an afternoon.

6. New Zealand receives consistent rainfall throughout the year, which explains its many pristine lakes and waterfalls. Lake Taupō is the largest in the country and is popular with local tourists for its water sports. Nearby Huka Falls on the Waikato River is another standout—it’s short but incredibly powerful and photogenic. Rotorua itself has crater lakes like Lake Rotorua and Lake Rotoiti, which are a bit less scenic but still pleasant. The nearby Okere and Tutea Falls are also worth a visit, and if you’re into adventure sports, white-water rafting on the Kaituna River—complete with a 7-meter drop over Tutea Falls—is a thrill not to be missed.

7. The local produce, especially dairy, was world-class. Regular full-fat milk tasted like a milkshake—rich and creamy, likely due to higher default fat content. It was oddly addictive. The broader cuisine was a bit underwhelming, though in fairness, I didn’t go out of my way to explore it in depth. That said, even the café inside a BP gas station had better coffee and meat pies than many U.S. chains. The wine was a pleasant surprise too—a $20 local red was fruity, slightly tart, and honestly better than most bottles I’ve picked up at specialty stores back home. Maybe beginner’s luck, but a happy discovery nonetheless.

5 things about San Ignacio, Belize

March 3, 2025 Sud-Scribeadventure, ATM caves, Belize, Cahal Pech, central-america, Maya, Mayan Ruins, San Ignacio, Travel, XunantunichLeave a comment

1. Belize stands out as an English-speaking country in predominantly Spanish-speaking Central America, a legacy of its colonial past as British Honduras. While known for its world-class diving sites along the Caribbean coast like Hol Chan Marine Reserve and the Great Blue Hole, the country also shares rich Mayan heritage with its neighbors. The Cayo district near the Guatemalan border is home to some of Belize’s best archaeological sites, many of which remain under the radar compared to those in neighboring countries.

2. San Ignacio was more economically modest than I anticipated, with most consumer goods being imported. The local business landscape reveals interesting patterns: grocery stores are predominantly operated by Chinese immigrants, while clothing shops are largely run by Indian merchants. These businesses maintain a straightforward approach—store names are typically anglicized versions of Chinese names without attempting to blend into local culture.

3. The biggest draw of San Ignacio is its proximity to exceptional Mayan ruins. Cal Pech sits right within town limits and dates back to 1200 BCE, making it one of the oldest sites in the region. Just 8 miles west, Xunantunich impresses as the area’s largest complex, featuring the second-tallest structure in Belize. The panoramic view from atop El Castillo alone makes the trip worthwhile. The site includes six plazas with temples, palaces, and classic Mayan structures like the ceremonial ball court. The journey to Xunantunich adds to the adventure—a short hand-cranked ferry across the Mopan River followed by a 1-mile hike through lush jungle canopy.

4. The ATM (Actun Tunichil Muknal) cave tour offers a thrilling archaeological adventure just 45 minutes from town. The main attraction is seeing Mayan artifacts preserved in an underground cave system, culminating in the “Crystal Maiden” chamber containing fully intact skeletal remains of sacrifice victims. While large tour groups can sometimes diminish the mystique, the full experience—involving a 45-minute jungle hike, multiple river crossings, and cave swimming—creates an unforgettable expedition. Be aware that the physical demands are significantly more challenging than advertised, even for active adults, primarily due to narrow passageways with sharp rocks.

Cave tour is the only option to visit the cave

5. Central American cuisine rarely earns international acclaim, and Belizean food was surprisingly understated even within the region. The national dish of rice and beans lacked the depth and flavor I’ve enjoyed elsewhere. Nevertheless, food at mom and pop restaurants is freshly made, with Benny’s Kitchen offering solid meals. The true culinary highlight was Belikin beer—one of the best mass-produced beers I’ve tried. This European-style lager achieves a perfect balance of crispness and malty flavor. It’s puzzling how Belize perfected its beer recipe before mastering its rice and beans.