1. Vancouver was originally called Granville back in the late 1800s. It was formally made a city in 1886 and was renamed to honour the British explorer George Vancouver who was the first to survey the coast in 1792. Prior to that this region was inhabited by the idendigenous people of Pacific Northwest mainly from Squamish, Tsleil-waututh and Xwméthkwyiem tribes.
2. Vancouver is a stone’s throw from Seattle. After considering several interesting and potentially scenic modes of transportation like the seaplane, Amtrak train and the speed boat via Victoria, I settled on the more accessible and affordable option – the humble greyhound bus. It was sufficient and dropped at the Pacific Central Station in under 4 hours. The border check was straightforward and probably the first time I crossed a land border checkpoint.
3. My favorite memory of Vancouver was exploring Stanley Park on foot. The scenery is beautiful with a bit more laid back vibe compared to the ones in Seattle. The views of the harbor from seawall on a sunny day is an invitation to picnic and catch up on the book lazing in the grass.
4. I did my obligatory Tim Horton’s pit stop.The coffee and donuts are ok but it is more of a tradition. Vij’s is a Vancouver staple but there are probably better options elsewhere in Canada or south of the border. The waffles with unique sauces at Medina cafe were A+ while Bella Gelateria serves some of the best gelato anywhere. In fact, James Coleridge of Bella won the awards at the Firenze gelato competition. Vancouver’s Chinatown is bustling but the real deal are apparently in the suburb of Richmond. It is known to have some of the best dim sum in North America. The Granville island public market was charming and the food hall has something for everyone.
5. Vancouver offers easy access to nature including the world class skiing zones at Whistler. I vowed to return back in the Winter but chickened out and settled for the ones closer to home at Mount Baker. Suspension bridges are a thing in Vancouver, while Capilano was built as a tourist attraction, the one at the Lynn Canyon is more charming. The Lynn Canyon park is great for hiking, its tall trees are green and leafy in the summer.
1.Although the area around today’s Mexico City was inhabited by various indigenous tribes as early as 100 AD, it was the Aztecs that laid the foundation of an actual city – Tenochtitlán. It was initially built over a lake, the Lago de Texcoco. Aztecs built an artificial island by dumping soil into the lagoon. Remnants of this ancient city are found at the Templo Mayor museum. When the Spanish came, they demolished most of the Aztec city and built a typical Spanish style city on top of it with its characteristic grand squares, cathedrals and palaces.
2. City is a sprawling metropolis with a population of about 9 million while the greater Mexico City area is home to about 21 million people.There is the fashionable but leafy neighborhood of Condesa, fancy but uptight Polamco, the bohemian Roma and its gentrifying cousin Juarez or the artsy Coyoacán, Mexico City has something for everyone much like every large city similar to its size. While general caution needs to be exercised in parts of La Merced, Tepito, Doctores and Centro Historic they are not dangerous. Plus, there is a usually a heavy police presence in touristy parts of these “difficult” neighborhoods. I stayed in Centro Historico and it was perfectly safe at all time of the day.
3. Given that Mexico was colonized by Spain for over 300 years, the influence on the Mexican identity is well known. But the founders of Ballet Folklórico de México created a dance ensemble to showcase the culture from the Mesoamerican times.The show is a visual spectacle with a mix of colorful and acrobatic dance performances. It usually runs a few times a week at the Bella Artes Museum. Lucha Libre (wresting show similar to WWE) is the polar opposite of the ballet with its grimy venues, loud audience and affordable options. Arena Mexico and Arena Coliseo are the top choices.The luchador mask defines the identity of the wrestler and also makes a good souvenir.
4. Teotihuacan is a mesoamerican city located in the central valley of Mexico about 90 minutes drive from Mexico City. While the original city predates the Aztecs, it was them who named it as Teotihuacan – “a place where gods are created”. In modern day, it is well known for its well preserved pyramids. The Pyramid of the Sun is a massive step pyramid. The best part is that is still open for climbing. Although the steps are a bit too narrow, it is fun to climb all the way to the top and get a bird’s eye view of the ancient city.
5. Something that struck me about Mexico city were how industrious the people were. For the most part, everybody wanted to do their job well. The guy at the juice shop, the taco masters, cab drivers were very professional. Although this might seem like a random generalization, there was a certain quality to their execution that led to me this conclusion.
6. Frida Kalho and Diego Riviera are much lauded for their contribution to art in Mexico but they were controversial figures looking back into history. Frida was an accidental artist. Although affected by polio early in the childhood, it was the devastating accident that had her bedridden for months and it is during this time that she took up painting. At 22, she had an affair with her teacher Diego Riviera and eventually married him. Frida and Diego joined the Mexican Communist Party and even petitioned the Mexican government to grant asylum to the soviet leader Leon Trotsky. They even hosted him at their Casa Azul house. Despite their mutual infidelities and the resulting complicated relationship, they were married until Frida’s death. The Casa Azul now a museum is very bohemian and rustic.
7. The greenery of Chapultepec Park are the lungs of Mexico City. Flanked by Polanco, Condesa and Colonia neighborhoods, it is home to the botanical garden, art and a number of museums and the Chapultepec castle. The Museo Nacional de Antropología is a must visit, it is an expedition into the history of Mexico centered around thoughtfully curated artifacts. I liked relaxing in the park and enjoying drinks at the fancy Starbucks with its bamboo chair swings.
8. Oranges were one of the imports from Spain who themselves were introduced to it during the period of Arab domination.There is almost always freshly squeezed orange juice available at most restaurants and cafes. I got one with my breakfast everyday. It was perfectly orangey and sweet.
9. The shrimp and fish tacos at El Pescadito set the bar really high for any taco I have in the future. The seafood is fried per order and the salsas are supremely flavorful. It was flavor explosions in my mouth. Another such experience was at the Mercado Coyocan while eating the shrimp tostadas. The salsas were mind-blowing. They are masters at balancing acidity and heat. Mole has complexity of flavor. Although I wasn’t a fan of it at first, I couldn’t resist licking it off my plate at Quintonail.
10. Churros, Conchas, Chocolate complete the sweet tooth trifecta in Mexico City. Lining up at El Moro and getting a pack of fresh churros is a memory on its own. Dunk it in house made european style hot chocolate, it becomes addictive. El moro churros are not greasy, they are crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside. It was fried food perfection. While Conchas are what croissants are to the French, the ones at the El Cardenal are pillowy soft. The table side hot chocolate is much more than the show, it is absolutely delicious – intense chocolate with just the right amount of sweetness. La Esperanza bakery chain is a solid option for both Mexican panaderia breads as well as viennoiseries.
1.Istanbul was born as Lygos. It became Byzantium before being colonized by the Greeks led by King Byzas. It was ransacked and rebuilt by Roman emperor Septimius Severus. But it did not embark on its path to greatness until Constantine the Great laid eyes on Byzantium in 324. He emerged victorious in the civil war and established Constantinopolis as the capital city of the Roman empire in 330. After he passed on, his sons split the empire and Constantinople became the capital of the Eastern Roman empire called Byzantine empire. This empire emerged with its distinctive Greek roots and became the center of Greek Orthodox Christianity. Justinian, the famous Byzantine emperor led major conquests and built Hagia Sophia as one of the largest cathedrals of that time. The Byzantine empire waned in power and in 1453 Sultan Mehmed II besieged and took over Constantinople. He rode straight into Hagia Sophia and ordered it be converted into a Mosque.
2. Ottoman architecture is reflected in its grand mosques. Their unique style is characterized by large central domes, smaller buildings with small semi-domes and tall minarets. As I entered Sulthanamet for the first time in the dead of the night, it felt like traveling back in time.While Blue Mosque is the most popular and undoubtedly great, it can get very crowded. I found the less popular ones like Fatih, Selim, Suleymaniye, Şehzade to be better for observing the architectural nuances and to be able to generally sit in awe for longer. Each of the domes are magnificent with intricate carvings and color patterns.
Sultan Ahmed Mosque
3. Hamman baths were an Ottoman tradition derived from Roman baths but these days it seems to be mostly a tourist thing. My Hamman experience was weird but fun. It started with lying on a hot stone in a steamy room, followed by intense scrubbing and cold water cleansing. There are very few old school hammans still left in Istanbul, Çemberlitaş Hamami is one of them which was designed by Mimar Sinan, the chief Ottoman architect.
4. The Ottoman Empire dominated the region since its inception. The last reigning monarch of the Ottoman empire tried enacting constitutional reforms but reverted to monarchy soon after. The Young Turk movement forced the monarch to enact reforms yet again and eventually forced him out in a coup in 1913. After being defeated as an ally of Germany in the first World War, the British and French forced occupied Anatolia. During this occupation, Muslims in that territory were persecuted by Greek and Armenian rebels. A resistance movement led by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk was born and eventually led to the formation of the Republic of Turkey. It was established as a progressive state with secular civil code and political rights for women. In recent times, Ataturk Secularism has morphed into Islamist resurgence under Erdogan.
5. At most hotel/hostels, Turkish Breakfast involves a lavish spread consisting of an array of breads,cheese and spreads but is Simit is a popular on the go option. It is Turkey’s version of bagel, eaten with cheese or jam. Menemen is a simple one pan dish with eggs, tomatoes and peppers stewed together to resemble a Shakshouka but is usually topped with sausage(sujuk).
Turkish BreakfastSimit
6. Baklava has become a part of Turkish culinary identity despite its Arab origins, in part due to great produce available in Turkey like the pistachios from Gaziantep. The sweetness in the Baklava can be a bit intense. Pair it with tea and it is perfect accompaniment to a good conversation. Karakoy Gullugolu and Hafiz Mustafa are local favorites but they are scores of good places all over the city. Turkish ice cream is more about the entertainment value.The addition of mastic lends a stretchy texture to the ice cream that is used for performing antics. I found the taste rather unpalatable due to its gumminess. However, I liked sahlep – a hot drink made from milk, sahlep powder (made from tubers of orchid) and topped with cinnamon and pistachios. I found it similar in consistency to the Mexican Atole. Ayran is Turkey’s version of buttermilk, Indians tourist would rejoice at its ubiquity. It is the drink of choice after most meals.
Baklava
7. Turkish Coffee is basically Arabic Coffee. It is brewed in a long narrow brass pots called Cezve. Since it is unfiltered, taste is bold and caffeine hit strong. My favorite moment in Turkey was drinking coffee with a bunch of middle aged locals right off Istikal Avenue. By using a combination of broken Hindi and English, I managed to make conversation and even share a laugh or two.
8. Sulthanamet is basically the the old town of Istanbul encompassing an area that includes Hagia Sophia, the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, the Hippodrome, Topkapı Palace, and the Basilica Cisterns. Beyoglu is an upscale neighborhood with lots of foreign embassies and lot of history. It was known as Galata in the Byzantine empire. The area became the base of European merchants, particularly from Genoa and Venice, in what was then known as Pera. In fact, the Genoans built the Galata tower. The famous Istikal Caddesi is home to tons of cafes, restaurants, coffee shops and shopping.
9. Istanbul is every modern as any major European city. The business district of Maslask is home to skyscrapers of all sizes.
10. Istanbul is split into two by the Bosphorous – one part of the European sub-continent and the in the Asian side as well. The more popular monuments are in the European side but there are remnants on the Asian side as well. Ferries help connect the city – most popular route from Eminomu to Kadikoy. The Asian side is much quieter and most parts of its are mostly residential. The Kadikoy food market is popular and Bagdat Caddessi is like the 5th Avenue of Istanbul.
1. We have Norwegian explorers to thank for discovering and inhabiting this beautiful island called Iceland. By 930 AD they even established some form of government starting with an outdoor assembly at Pingvellir (now part of a national park). This assembly evolved as Althing which claims to be one of the oldest parliaments in the world.
2. Iceland tends to rank highly along with its Nordic counterparts in the World Happiness Report. Nationalized high quality healthcare, state funded education and a strong economy are likely major reasons for it. Most notably, Iceland has consistently ranked first in the gender equality index. It is said to have eliminated gender pay gap completely. But the downside is everything is expensive – gas, groceries, alcohol.
3. Iceland is nature at its best. It is so raw and formidable that humanity and its problems start to feel insignificant. It is best seen by road tripping through the ring road which encircles the island. There is an abundance of awe inspiring things along the route from waterfalls to geysers to glaciers to volcanoes. It is hard to take a bad picture with so much going on. Most folks start or end their journey at the capital, which has a great small town feel to it. The viewpoint from the top of Hallgrímskirkja Church provides panoramic views of the city.
4. The waterfalls in Iceland are otherworldly. In summer amidst the lush green setting, they are breathtaking. Skogasfoss is a dreamy waterfall but no mistake it is powerful, the showers can even be felt at a safe distance. It is also adventurous to walk all the way to the top to get a glimpse of the waterfalls from the back. The Seljalandsfoss is taller but can be seen seen right from the highway. The adjoining trails provide access to other smaller waterfalls. Gullfoss is a massive waterfalls that originates from a glacier and falls into a gorge in two tiers. It is jaw dropping.There are many more falls like Godafoss, Svartifoss that are totally worth exploring.
5. The Geysir is easily the funnest natural phenomenon that I have ever seen. You kind of know what to expect but you still cheer every time it blows up. I even did a self guided glacier hike at Solehimajakull since the tours filled up and went to a black sand beach at Reynisfara right after. Such dramatic changes in geography is what makes Iceland truly special. Vik is a great stop to explore Dyrhólaey peninsula and is on way to Jokulsarlon, home to the glacier lagoon.
6. I experienced Midnight Sun for the first time ever. It was cool to see daylight barely dim even around midnight. Most homes in Iceland seem to have blackout curtains to help keep their sleep cycles manageable even during summer. In Winter, I guess the curtains never shut.
7. Icelandic food is fresh and unfussy but also hearty and flavorful. There are few if any avant-garde restaurants and I was told that most icelanders prefer to cook and eat simple meals at home. Perhaps, why bother when the produce especially the seafood is amazing.Eating out is very expensive too. Icelandic butter Smjor much like the Irish version is yellow in color showing its purity. Skyr is Icelandic strained yogurt, it makes for a nutritious breakfast or a snack. Skyr Cheesecake was drop dead delicious. I fell in love with the cinnamon rolls at Brod in Reykjavik, so much so that we went there every morning. This ain’t close to anything that is available in America and they definitely don’t douse it in sweet icing. While Rye bread is a staple across Scandinavia, At Cafe Loki it is a family recipe where the bread is dense but moist and they even make an ice cream with it.
1. London is as cosmopolitan as it gets. Due to the its colonial past and liberal economic policies, it has attracted people from all over the world in search of a better life. There are large neighborhoods that have evolved to cater to specific communities from certain Commonwealth countries. Southall is home to the largest Sikh community in London, Ealing is the hub of the Polish community, Brixton is the home to the Caribbean community and so on.
2. There is history around every corner. I stumbled upon a quaint church – All Hallows by the Tower near the financial district and found that it had a connection to John QuincyAdams, one of founders of United States of America. Then they are the museums. British Museum is an incredible repository of world history. I could easily spend days unpacking each exhibition although I couldn’t shake off the feeling that a majority of exhibits were misappropriated from their homeland. The National Gallery is another gem. Victoria and Albert Museum’s Asian artifact and ceramic collection is among the best. Even the Museum of London was very educational. I learned that the Romans established Londonium as a port town on River Thames. It is hardly surprising since they were everywhere. Ruins of that city’s original defense walls are found near the Tower Hill station.
3. The greenery is unparalleled for any big city. Hampstead Heath, Primrose Hill, Hyde Park, St James Park, Greenwich Park, Kensington Gardens, Kew Gardens are all amazing and accessible. The drizzly weather probably makes it slightly easier to maintain the lushness of the gardens but the attention to detail to its upkeep is very admirable.
4. There is simply no other place outside India where Indian food is considered a staple. But I was pleasantly surprised by the elevated Indian food scene – Dishoom, Gymkhana, Trishna, Quilon, Veerasamy, Gunpowder, Benares, Zaika and the list goes on. While Dishoom pays homage to Irani cafes in Mumbai, Gymkhana was about showcasing hits from various cuisines of India.
5. British food never had this reputation of being sophisticated or diverse although I think they deserve more credit. However, the sheer variety and quality of baked goods blew my mind. Be it the simple custard, the rich treacle tart or the imported Friand, they were all scrumptious.
6. Cricket is very much part of the popular culture in Britain. Walking into the stadium at Lords was a special experience for an ardent cricket fan like me. Even more so was walking down the hallowed long room which has witnessed some of the key moments in the history of cricket.
7. One of the unique characteristics of London is the co-existence of the old and new – buildings/monuments that are centuries old along with ones that were built in 2000s. There is no “old town” like most cities in Europe.
8. While every major city in the world now has food halls and indoor markets, the outdoor markets in London are rather popular. Unlike the farmer’s markets in America, the ones in London are more than just food and groceries. I saw books, vintage clothes, artisanal products literally anything that be sold. The Old Spitafields Market seemed to be popular with the African Diaspora with its fashionable ethnic wear – dashikis, kitenge and boubou’s.
9. The London Black Cab is charming. The process of becoming a cabbie is notorious for its rigorousness. In the age of Uber, it is one of those anachronisms that I hope would not disappear. Also, I had one of most intellectual conversations about US foreign policy towards EU with a cabbie. So, I might be biased.
10. London’s theatre scene is huge probably only rivaled by NYC’s Broadway. The area surrounding Leicester Square has all the popular shows at various venues.The Shakespeare’s Globe is both native and unique to London. The theatre itself is a reconstruction of an Elizabethan era playhouse for which Shakespeare wrote his plays. Although I couldn’t make it to a play, I thought that the rustic set up was very charming. The interiors of the Royal Opera House are breathtaking. The architecture tour is another way to access the Opera House without spending $$$.
1.Petra is actually the Greek name for Raqmu, home of Nabateans. The Nabateans were one of the few nomadic Bedouin tribes who prospered with trade and even established their own kingdom between 2nd and 4th century BC. They co-operated with the Romans and grew their kingdom, roman theatre and all impressive facades are estimated to have been built during that period.The treasury facade is carved on the pink sandstone rocks and is a sight to behold. Hundreds, if not thousands of tombs are also carved into the rocky cliffs. Like most civilizations, they just seem to have vanished but left us with these beautiful monuments to wonder at.
2. Dead Sea was surreal. I simply couldn’t imagine floating in water although science explains how. But to experience it was another thing. It is one of the most memorable experiences of my life. I simply couldn’t get enough of it.I was able to access both at a private property and public beach. The dead sea mud rub is part of the experience and is known to have skin healing properties. Almost all resorts or tour packages offer this complimentary .The public beach was equally fun but then again be open to large crowds and fewer facilities. It is a sad that the dead sea is drying up due to local and macro factors like global warning.
3. Wadi Rum is Martian looking. In fact, it was used to film parts of many space movies like The Martian, The Last Day on Mars and Red Planet. The desert has a magical silence to it that we don’t experience in our daily lives anymore. Also, sleeping under the stars never loses its charm. There are tons of tours that offer overnight tent stays including cultural experience like presentations from local musicians and bedouin food. Bedouins own access to the Wadi just like Native Americans manage access to canyons on their reservations.
4. Amman was my first city experience in the Arab World. It has interesting geographical texture – hills and winding streets. The Roman Amphitheater still stands and is testament to the might and reach of the Roman empire. It was no less impressive than other similar monuments in Italy. I kept wishing for more time in Amman. Jerash is another popular day trip option from Amman known for its Roman ruins.
5. I had the best Kunefe ever in Amman – there is absolutely nothing to complain about hot gooey cheese drizzled with sugar syrup. It was soul warming. The store like a melting pot where class barriers didn’t seem to matter. This was followed by Arabic cardamon coffee, the aroma of which still lingers in my memory. Maklouba (meaning upside down in Arabic) is an one pot dish native to the region. Meat, rice, vegetable and spices are cooked in shallow pot and flipped on to a serving plate to form a rice tower.Although the vegetarian friendly version was tasty enough, it was akin to a meatless biriyani. The maghmour also referred to as Moussakal is a dish wherein eggplant, tomatoes, spice are cooked to a creamy consistency. It makes for a great dip for the pita alongside the ubiquitous hummus and ful.
1.The city of Dublin is divided into two by the Liffey river – Northside and Southside. Hence, there are a series of small bridges across the river.The most famous of them, Ha’Penny bridge has an interesting history. It was commissioned as a compromise to replace the ferries that were used by Dubliners to cross the Liffey river. The ferry owner chose to build a toll bridge instead of replacing his aging ferry fleet. At one point, the toll fee was penny-ha’penny (11/2 pence)and that became the identity of the bridge itself.
2. I was never much of a beer person but I absolutely fell in love with Guinness upon sampling it at the Guinness Storehouse. The entrance is pricey and the museum itself can feel like an informercial but they have made a genuine effort to present the science behind beer making in an engaging way. The original Guinness brewery at James Gate was established by Arthur Guiness in 1759 and apparently was chosen due to its excellent water supply.During its first 18 years, the brewery didn’t even sell porter but has only brewed porter beer since 1797.
3. Trinity college was found as the College of the Holy and Undivided Trinity of Queen Elizabeth by Queen Elizabeth I to be in the same league as colleges in Oxford and Cambridge but it never grew beyond that one college. Today, it is now the most prestigious educational institution in Ireland with an illustrious alumni list and known to tourists as the home of book of Kells.The book of Kells is very significant in Christian history as it contains the four gospels in Latin and has survived since 348AD. I was awestruck by the long room despite the crowds. It was like stepping back in time. About 2,00,000 of the Library’s oldest books displayed with busts of famous philosophers laid out along the edges of the room with antique wooden panels, I was ready to make it my future workplace.
4. Ireland seemed unusually green to my eyes. For a leisure day, Phoenix park is a great bet. It is Dublin’s answer to big city parks like Central Park, Golden Gate Park, Hyde Park. As we hopped on the bus to Irish countryside, the quaint manor houses always caught the eye.
5. Irish cuisine is known to be hearty but they certainly have elevated the humble porridge.Brother Hubbard’s version was outstanding, one of the best porridges that I had ever had. Porridge is an Irish staple along with soda bread. Soda bread uses baking soda as a leavening agent instead of yeast. The low gluten “soft wheat” that grows in Ireland is typically used to make this bread. I thought it had a bit of funny after taste but with a dollop of bright yellow Irish butter it didn’t seem to matter as much. The yellow color is an indication of the quality of Irish butter. Thanks to the abundance of green grass and consequently happy cows.
1.Visiting the Pyramids was so surreal. It just stood there in all its glory surviving thousand of years. The Giza complex houses three main pyramids – Pyramid of Khufu, Pyramid of Khafre and Pyramid of Manekure. Of which, the Pyramid of Khufu is the largest and highest in world and is also known as the great pyramid of Giza. Pyramids are made entirely of blocks of sandstone. Although the pyramids have lost their original shine, certain parts do give us some idea of what it would have looked like. I can only imagine the kind of awe an imposing and glowing monument would have elicited in its hey day. It is a back breaking process to make these stones shine and it probably only added to the complexity of the entire operation.They are also four other small but dilapidated pyramids in the larger complex area.The great sphinx of Giza was much smaller than I imagined it to be but it is still photogenic.
2. Saqqara and Dahshur are other pyramid destinations that are within driving distance of Giza. Saqqara is a necropolis area for the ancient city of Memphis. The hieroglyphics in the Tomb of Idut were absolutely fascinating. I had to pinch myself time and again to convince myself that I wasn’t dreaming. Saqqara is also home to the Step Pyramid. The statue of Rameses nearby in Memphis is also worth a stop. Dashur is home to the red pyramid and the bent pyramid. The bent pyramid has an angle change midway. There are many theories as to how it ended up that way but our guide casually admitted that it was most likely an experiment gone wrong.
3. I wish I had time for Coptic Cairo but the security situation was very fluid during our visit. So, we chose to end our day earlier and sweltering heat in September didn’t help either. Sadly, the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization was also closed for renovation during our visit. We also gave the Mohammed Ali Mosque (Ottoman style mosque) a miss since we had been been in Istanbul only a few weeks ago.
4. Cairo is a sprawling metropolis with a population of 9 million at the core of the Greater Cairo region which is home to about 20 million people. Not sure if it is a protective hack against dust but brownish hues seemed to dominate the city’s color palette. Also, rows of unfinished houses are the norm in Cairo. Apparently, there are tax implications if the construction looks “complete”. Hence, the citizens of Cairo seemed to embrace this strategy.
5. Life is hard for average Egyptians. The infrastructure is dilapidated, post revolution politics led way to a different form of autocracy and opportunities for survival leave alone advancement are scarce. So, don’t scorn the hustlers looking to offer you a camel ride or sell you a postcard but get good at saying firm nos. Bakshish (bribes) are expected pretty much everywhere even at the archaeological sites administered by the Ministry of Antiquities.
6. The Nile is a source of pride and a lifeline for Egypt. Although the glory seems long lost, the lifeline thing is still very true. About 90% of Egypt’s 100 million population live along the Nile. There is an old tussle between Egypt and Ethiopia on sharing Nile resources.Taking a Felucca ride is a good way to experience the Nile but it is more about the story. There are probably better places elsewhere in the world for a boat cruise.
7. Ful and falafel(tameeya) sandwiches are breakfast staples. They are tasty, nourishing and cheap. Koshary is Egypt’s national kitchen sink dish. It is a weird mix of rice, macaroni and lentils topped with spicy tomato sauce, chickpeas and fried onions. Although the tomato sauce contributes to 90% of the flavor, the dish surprisingly works.
1. Khmer is the largest ethnic group in Cambodia. Informally, people of Cambodia are called Khmer.The official language is also called Khmer and so is the cuisine. The Khmer were both polite and friendly. Apparently, the Cambodian government while keen on growing the tourist economy is also serious about keeping the flesh trade outside their border.
2. The Temple of Angkor Wat is very important to the Khmers. So much so that it is also on the national flag.They take immense pride in their cultural roots. The temple is grand and imposing. It captures the waxing and waning of religious orders in Cambodia. The first Khmer empire – Angkor started out as Hindu Shaivite Kingdom established by Jayavarman ll in the 9th century. Suryavarman ll built the Angkor Wat as a Vishnu Temple as a break from their Shaivite tradition in early 12th century. In the latter half of 12th century under Jayavarman Vll became a Mahayana Buddhist kingdom. The Vishnu Temple Angkor Wat was converted to a Buddhist temple. After a short tryst again with Shaivite Hinduism, Khmer empire transitioned into the popular Theravada Buddhism in the 13th century. The Angkor complex has several other monuments but the Bayon temple is surreal. The Ta Prohm temple got its fame thanks to Tomb Raider. Among the smaller temple, Ta Keo, Mebon, Pre Rup are all worth visiting. They all have the hallmarks of the Angkor architecture – central sanctuary, prangs, enclosures and gopuras.
3. The word ‘Angkor’ means the Capital City. It is said to have been derived from the Sanskrit word ‘nagara’. The founder of Angkor empire even crowned himself ‘Chakravarthin’ meaning lord of the universe, also borrowed from Sanskrit. The Hindu roots are visible even more at Bantaey Srei( 20 km from Siem Reap) which resembles an ancient temple in South India depicting scenes from Hindu Mythology. It is also unique that it wasn’t ordered by a King but a courtier in Rajendravaraman’s court. Kbal Spean archaeological site is home to stone carvings of myriads of lingams (Symbol of Lord Shiva) as well as other Hindu gods. The Khmers are proud of their mixed heritage (Hindu and Buddhist).
4. The city of Siem Reap is actually a living city. It is fully equipped with super markets, pharmacies and even some popular brand stores. The pub street is tourist central for eating out and shopping. Prices for tourists listed in USD can be a bit jarring. Things aren’t as cheap as one might think but still goes a long way. There is an official local currency but even ATMs spit out US dollars.
5. Amok is a classic Khmer Dish. It is kind of custardy steamed fish in a coconut milk curry. Although very similar to a Thai curry preparation(coconut milk, chilly, kaffir lime,galangal,lemongrass, fish sauce), the key difference is the generous addition of noni leaves. The noni leaves have a bitter aftertaste but is known to have a slew of health benefits including its anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties.
1. Although Thailand transitioned from an absolute monarchy almost 90 years ago, the king wieldsconsiderable influence over the civil society. The most visible aspects of this influence are the little shrines embedded in Thai buildings with pictures of the King and Queen. This is despite the King’s rather bizarre lifestyle. So, I can’t piece together if this influence was earned or forced. It is likely a bit of both given that the previous king, Bhumibol was one of the longest serving monarchs in the world and Thailand also has one of the harshest lese majeste laws in the world.
2. Bangkok is a sprawling metropolis with pockets of posh high rises and abject poverty at the other end. The hotel districts in Sukhumwit, Silom and Khao San Road are safe and well maintained but beware of petty theft and bar bullies which are not uncommon in other parts of world.
3. There is lot said about Thai street food. Almost every bit is true. It is a way of life here. Every vendor has their own twist or speciality and the set up on the sidewalks is well thought through. We tried our hand at Thai cooking in a class and the curries turned out to be great. The secret ingredient is fish sauce but the fresh ground Thai Chili paste is essential. Also, Pad Thai is truly a kitchen sink dish, you can put almost anything and get way with it. I absolutely loved the mango sticky rice and wasn’t disappointed by any version of it.
4. The Thai temples are truly stunning. I was equally impressed with the Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Pho.The former has such ornate architecture and latter with its beautiful pagodas and triads of buddha statues.The marquee attractions at emerald buddha(Wat Phra Kaew) and reclining buddha (Wat Pho) are always overcrowded but are also overhyped. Wat Arun is another popular temple across the river known for its great views of sunrise/sunset.
5. The paintings at Wat Phra Kaewhighlighted the strong Hindu influences on Thai Culture. The epic Ramayana known as Ramekien is a source of national pride for Thailand. When a number of written versions of epic were lost when Ayuuthaya fell to the Burmese in 1767, then king Rama I ( founder of the ruling Chakri Dynasty) commissioned that Ramekien be rewritten for posterity. Although the main plot is identical to the Indian version, there are plenty of Thai influences sprinkled in.
6. Sex tourism is in your face no matter where you go in the city. Seeing odd ball couples (white senior with a young Thai woman) will leave you with varying degrees of unpleasantness. But it is just business for those vulnerable Thai women trying to making a living when the opportunities for subsistence are limited. I heard that flesh trade is lucrative relative to most semi-skilled professions. Although not entirely surprising but a sad reality.
7. For better or worse,Thailand is now known for its massages. Although they have developed a seedy reputation over time, it is said to have roots in healing practices practiced in ancient Thailand. It is now regulated by Thai department of public health and certified practitioners need to have significant training in order to be licensed. I am not even a massage person but I enjoyed the experience at Asia Herb Association, a mini chain in Bangkok.
flagsandforks 